From Sustainability to Diversity, Fashion Roundtable reflects on the legacy of Jean Paul Gaultier
By Paige Wilson
One of the first words that comes to mind when thinking of Jean Paul Gaultier is iconic. The first memory I have of him is stumbling across his perfume in our family bathroom before I was even at an age where I was allowed to wear perfume. I remember, like many before me, the first thing that struck me was the bottle shaped like a woman’s figure (or man’s torso for the male aftershave) with the signature conical bra. It seems that the word icon has stuck. Despite his status, he announced to the world that 2020 Paris Fashion week would be his last and he is bowing out of his reign over the fashion world (although I doubt this will be the last we see of him).
How does one start to round up Gaultier’s five decades of fashion? Presumably, there is only one starting point and that is the virgin herself, Madonna. The beginning of Gaultier’s pioneering career saw him use underwear as outerwear in the 1980s. He unashamedly brought corsets to the catwalk in his 1984 show, with the drop of his ever so classic conical silhouette bra, later worn by Madonna in her Blond Ambition world tour.
“Ahead of his time” is a phrase that defines Gaultier, with collections that were some of the first to blur the accepted lines of gender, with both his men and women’s lines. Not only did he challenge gender stereotypes, but he did it in the best way possible by subverting classic male dominated outfits like suits and overthrowing this with men in skirts or the use of his striped sailor tops.
From what is worn on the catwalk to who is gracing it, Gaultier strived to redefine the norm in everything. The next step was including people who had been left out of the fashion world, showcasing those real people. The term diversity can also be applied to his brand, as he took pride in putting all sizes in his clothes which was especially highlighted in his 2011 show, which celebrated the body.
Yet, his career was far from uncontroversial, first in a short stint as the host of Eurotrash and later in 2018 he came under fire for a line inspired by cigarettes. More recently though, he has turned his hand to speak out about issues which are very close to our hearts at Fashion Roundtable— especially surrounding sustainability. It is commendable that Gaultier, an insider within the industry, has criticised creatives and brands that burn millions of pounds of clothing each year (no naming and shaming here, most brands engage in these practices). Yet, his stance is in line with others like Vivienne Westwood, stating that we all need to play a part and take up responsibility.
His last couture show saw him go out in typical style. Set in the Théâtre du Châtelet, Boy George opened the show with a rendition of Back to Black and then we saw over 200 looks hit the catwalk. Within these looks were snippets of the past as he recycled some themes and up-cycled fabrics. I will say it again, Jean Paul Gaultier is an icon.