Fashion Director Karen Binns shares her verdict on London Fashion Week Men's
Fashion Roundtable’s Fashion Director Karen Binns shares her take on London Fashion Week Men’s
HERITAGE
Homegirl Flex
This London Fashion Week has been a real eye opener— there has been a lot of importance placed on heritage. It’s been a very “Where I’m From” going on! First, without thinking too much about it, it’s been slowly taken over by FEMALE designers, and to add a little more spice to the situation of diversity— they happen to be black British girls. Never, in the history of fashion, has there been so many women, dictating how men should look.
This week there were four British and black “home girls” (as I like to say) running things in the menswear international market, and not to say they are only designing sportswear but full on alternative, high fashion luxe—with ground-breaking cuts, casual wear and fresh modern tailoring.
First up is the star that has brought attention to how a woman’s touch can achieve luxury in the menswear department.
MARTINE ROSE
She is playing NO games. Here she explodes her 80s “back in the day” aesthetic to the fullest extreme, showing you the luxury of good clothes for men can always have a twist of alternative excitement. She also addressed her roots by showing the “Human League“ like hair in an Afro format ... genius and yes, we got this look too, which of course has been taken from past African tribal hair styles.
WALES BONNER
Taking her inspiration from the series of photos called “Lovers Rock”, an exhibition from the late 70s on black British youth by John Goto. It was brilliantly executed, adding rice and peas, patties and sorrel to make sure you really feel it! For me this was also a quick hit of the Haile Selassie Movement celebrated by Bob Marley. And still to add, she brought the legendary Soundsystem to the stage, just in case you didn’t know!
AHLUWALIA
She has an incredible consistency to her brand, having half Nigerian/Indian cultures to reflect on. She brings it to the level of a causal elegance, showing the pride in her culture every season, but takes it to the place of sport luxe wearability.
BIANCA SAUNDERS
British Jamaican… totally not missing a beat! This season she took it back to true DANCEHALL culture of the Jamaican house party— pure, as they say “blouse and skirt” raves of the 80s and 90s. The Presentation of the season, she built huge satin draped rooms and showed us how it’s done. Models were dancing to ragga. It was the best fun ever at a presentation. She delivered a modern version of The Three Piece Suit in denim and fine wools. She kept her modern luxe aesthetic present in the separates of the collection as well as introducing the shoulder drape sweatsuit. She is “on her way up“ and getting rave reviews, allowing her to be a serious contender for luxury brands.
The flow of “Where I’m From” is more evident than ever because of this Brexit disaster—it feels like London designers are really taking it to a hardcore level of excellence showing the international market that they NEED to buy into British brands, even when it’s more expensive. Because we’re worth it…
CHARLES JEFFREY
Seriously! He’s not playing. His show was spectacular…bringing in the realness of England’s King Arthur with rituals and dance. Again he reinvented beautiful plaids and, as always, added his radical punk London flavour throughout the collection. Paganism and punk— you just can’t stop him, he’s quite invincible. He’s the superhero we need right now.
STEFAN COOKE
I love this brand because it gives us the best and most wanted jumpers on the planet! Again I see how the heritage of the BRITISH ISLES has such a strong influence on their DNA . They said this was called the end of an era which allows them to push forward into 2020 with an extra bang. This season, I felt a more medieval rhythm in the collection. Boat neck coats for men etc— this is brand new for sure, and metal beaded pullovers are great references to attach to menswear. Second season solo from the incubator Fashion East, they are holding it down. Bravo!