How Unpaid Internships Propagate the Fashion Industry's Class Divide

By Chloe McDonald

For decades, the fashion industry has been known for its exclusivity – both in terms of those who can afford to participate in the buying of luxury and designer goods, and those who make up the industry’s key players and influencers. For many trying to get a foot in the door of the fashion industry, the role of internships will not be unfamiliar. Many companies operating within the realm of fashion offer a range of internships – from photography assistants to e-commerce – yet so many of these offers remain unpaid, or only offer to cover the cost of expenses (travel and lunch).

And with many of these companies running out of the UK’s capital, where cost of living is significantly higher, how is one from supposed to subsidise their income?

This is evidence of the ever-present class divide within fashion, and the creative industries at large. Many companies provide unpaid internships, offering experience and exposure as a subsidy for actual payment, suggesting that this will help those participating in the long run to find a job in the industry. However, these unpaid positions continue the structural divide in fashion— allowing those with the economic means to advance and become successful, whilst working-class and POC individuals are left at a serious disadvantage. The persistent use of internships and work placements have become a way for companies to exploit a rotation of free labour, almost cancelling out the need for paid entry-level positions. 

Although there has been much debate surrounding the topic of unpaid internships in the UK in recent years, and the government setting out definitions of roles that require financial entitlement and employee rights, a new bill has been proposed that will allow some unpaid positions to remain. The new bill proposed to the House of Lords by Lord Holmes of Richmond wants to allow unpaid work experiences (up to four weeks long) to be made legal in the UK. Holmes’s website claims that he understands the impact of unpaid internships on social mobility within the UK, arguing his commitment to increase equal opportunities. However, by opting to allow these unpaid placements, Holmes is allowing many companies to continue to exploit free labour opposed to offering permanent paid opportunities.

By allowing these types of internships to become legal, many of those from working class backgrounds will be left at a disadvantage once again. Graduating from university is an achievement in itself for so many working-class individuals and entering the work force can be a tedious task for most. A quick scan through the myriad of job sites available will highlight the difficult situation that many people from lower economic backgrounds face. Searching for entry level roles across many different sectors will show the unrealistic standards graduates are faced with. Most jobs posted to these websites not only require a degree level education, but also one to two years of experience in a related field.

A recent report by the Creative Industries Policies and Evidence Centre revealed that just 16% of people working in the creative industries – which include journalism, publishing, photography and many more – are from working class backgrounds. With figures like this, and the profound effect of COVID-19 on the British creative industries, these figures present a worrying future for recent graduates and those wanting to break into these industries – especially those from a lower income background. 

This is a fear that I too share with thousands of people across Britain. Coming from a single parent, working class background, I was the first member of my family to attend university. When deciding on the course that I was going to study, I chose something that I was interested in, passionate about and knew I would enjoy. I studied for an undergraduate degree in Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion, and in October I will finish my masters in Fashion History and Culture. Educationally, I am qualified for an entry level job – more so perhaps than many. However, due to my economic background, I was unable to gain as much industry experience as others. I undertook two unpaid internships during my undergraduate degree – something I managed to do through a combination of student loans, part time work and savings. But these three-month long internships have not proven enough to appeal to HR recruiters. If there were more paid internships and opportunities available, I perhaps wouldn’t be in this very position. It’s become unrealistic to expect new university graduates to obtain two years’ worth of experience when many have to subsidise their studies through part time jobs. What the creative industries need is a level playing field, so that those with talent and drive can gain opportunities, not just those with the economic advantage.

The continuation of unpaid internships in the British fashion industry further highlights the unsustainability of the industry’s current model. You can show your support by signing the ‘No To 4 Weeks’ petition organised by job site FashionWorkie.co.uk here.