Kimono to Catwalk: Fashion Roundtable's review of the latest V&A exhibition

The Victoria and Albert Museum is no stranger to spectacular fashion and design exhibitions. In their latest work Kimono to Catwalk, curator Anna Jackson and project curator Josephine Route look to the Orient and Japan from where the history and design of this iconic garment can be traced.

‘Kimono’ translates simply into ‘the thing to wear’. It’s symbolic not only of Japan, but of innovative design that has global appeal, being both genderless and classless. Divided into three, the exhibition is rich with the historical context of the kimono. ‘Kimono in Japan’ is the first section and explores the development of the gown during the Edo period (1615-1868) making reference to its ceremonious nature with many wedding interpretations on display.  Here, one can appreciate the luxurious textiles and century old weaving techniques which the Japanese government have stringently sought to preserve through to the modern day. 

As the world began to open to trade, the next phase presents ‘Kimono in the World’. Exported by the Dutch East India Company, the influence of Asian fashion in the West reached new frontiers where silk robes—later evolving into the dressing gown— were all the rage. Conversely, the upper echelons of Japanese society discarded traditional dress to adopt western designs in a bid to aspire to higher status.

Amongst the eclectic mix of silk robes, stand-out accessory pieces include the Cartier Paris display which calls heavily upon Japanese stylist codes.

How is a staple of Japanese culture transformed into contemporary design? The final area sees the Kimono reprised following the Second World War and revived by international fashion houses.  

It is this display that truly conveys the power of the kimono to democratise fashion across borders. Stand out pieces include the dress and obi sash by Galliano, Alexander McQueen’s kimono jacket and the cocktail and bolero ensemble from YSL. Here, he fashioned an overskirt into a uchikake (padded outer kimono).

Galliano’s lime green chee sie san masterpiece for Dior in the 1950’s is similarly captivating.  

Space is dedicated to performance kimonos and here fans of the 2005 cinematic interpretation of Memoirs of a Geisha can appreciate the Oscar winning costumes designed by Coleen Attwood. Those who have watched the film will resonate with how the item was so treasured, it was often used as a form of currency and means of power by the protagonist's Hatsumomo and Sayuri.  

The kimono has been celebrated by the twenty first century’s biggest stars. From Bowie, to Madonna’s scarlet PVC obi by Jean Paul Gautier, and Bjork’s avant-garde piece by McQueen, the display proves the kimono is a creation with universal appeal.

Occasionally, modern day interpretations of foreign cultures can come under scrutiny. The Japanese way of life, both in terms of philosophy and cuisine have become increasingly popularised in the West. Likewise, this can be said of South East Asian culture in general, as we witness the seismic influence of Hollywood hits including Crazy Rich Asians and Korean Oscar winner Parasite. Translating the East in a Western context can sometimes teeter on the fine line of cultural appropriation. Just last year we saw the public ‘cancelling’ of Kim Kardashian following an ill-advised decision to name her new shapewear brand ‘Kimono’. The extent of this criticism and backlash from Japan prompted a rebrand to the now known ‘Skims’. 

However, the execution of Kimono to Catwalk is successful in walking this tightrope and the production is both tasteful and respectful. There isn’t a sense anywhere in the exhibition that the power and devotion to this symbol of Japan is misconveyed to its audience. 

The kimono has remained mostly unchanged throughout the centuries. Appealing to all cultures, classes and genders, the curation emphasises the timelessness of the garment. Beautiful and captivating whilst equally detailed with historical context, this exhibition is a must visit in London this spring. 

Kimono to Catwalk runs at the V & A from February 29th - June 21st. Tickets are £16-£18.  

By Amy Nguyen – Founder & Editor of Sustainable & Social