OP-ED: Victoria Moss, Fashion Editor

Image credit: @dressx

By Victoria Moss

What to do when Instagram becomes an uncomfortable flip book of fashion shows and pleas for peace, and new shoes and shelled buildings and beauty hauls and babies born in bomb shelters?

Last week ELLE Ukraine went from posting about Simone Rocha’s new earrings to Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s address as Russian troops started to unleash their fury. In Milan, Jo Ellison from the Financial Times shared her encounter with Vena Brykalin, Vogue Ukraine’s fashion director. He told how Ukrainian journalists and stylists were omitted from fashion shows and presentations while their Russian counterparts were feted. 

Brands have in recent times jumped onto social movements with virtue-signalling vigour, yet so far there has been restraint. The titans of Italian fashion largely stayed quiet on the issue until the week closed with a thoughtfully silent show from Giorgio Armani. The uncomfortable reality? Money talks.

How far should fashion sanction Russia is perhaps becoming more of a moot point in the light of the crashing ruble, towering interest rates and excommunication from global banking systems. But would or should luxury labels close stores in Russia? Hold on orders and deliveries to the state? On the eve of Paris Fashion Week the Federation de la Haute Couture et la Mode released a statement asking for attendees to “experience the coming days with solemnity, and in reflection of these dark hours”. The shows must go on, but the vibe has definitely shifted.