London Fashion Week, British Storytelling, Values and the need for Economic Investment

Proud to see so many of those we have incubated and mentored taking front stage at LFW

The Princess of Wales showed how to do red carpet royal dressing (in a brand many of us have never heard of), for the State Banquet with President Trump at Windsor Castle last week. Rather than wearing well-known British brands such as Temperley, McCartney or McQueen, plus any number of U.S. designers who would have gladly dressed her, she chose the best kept secret of what I call the “rah corridor” (the M4), a silk crepe gown with a gold Chantilly lace evening coat by British bridal designer Phillipa Lepley, the go-to for posh weddings from Kensington to the Cotswolds. And frankly, she looked spectacular. Her newly bronde hair loose, topped with the Queen Mary's Lover's Knot Tiara. The same Queen Mary whose doll’s house the Queen and Melania Trump viewed the next day.

In many ways, the Princess of Wales sums up how we need to look at London Fashion Week, whose shows and presentations have filled up my calendar for the several days. No longer a fashion editor, whose job it is to SEE everything and BE SEEN everywhere, I search out the brands and designers whose aesthetic, values or heritage imbued designs, align with Fashion Roundtable’s mission. I don’t focus on the noise and the hype, I zone in on those whose values are part of the Fashion Roundtable ecosystem. Our mission statement clearly says: “Fashion is much more than catwalk shows, it is core to culture, craft, creativity and change-making.” 7 years into Fashion Roundtable, I also love seeing the brands I have mentored, incubated and showcased rising up the ranks and being seen. Once an editor…

This week was also the first where Laura Weir, the new CEO of the British Fashion Council, was at the helm of London Fashion Week. Clearly defined at her BFC breakfast speech on Friday, its her mission to up the buying value of British brands, as the budget to fly international buyers and journalists has been doubled. This is good news, you have to wonder what fashion shows are for if no one in fashion buying is taking up one of the very costly seats, given fashion shows cost tens of thousands of £££s to produce. If you are showing in London, selling in Paris, and paying for both, the question I think Laura is hoping to solve is why London?

My styling career came of age in the era when I think we knew why London. Not only was I styling the Rimmel “Love the London Look” campaign, I was also watching the rise of Roksanda, Marios Schwab, Mary Katzantrou, and Christopher Kane, and on the edge of my seat for Hussein Chalayan shows, while McQueen had moved his shows to Paris where they went stellar. 20 years ago we had some incredible talent, schooled by Louise Wilson at Central St Martins, coming into Topshop invested programmes both for in-store sales and on the catwalk, led by Jane Shepherdson, while 24/7 working PRs such as Mandi Lennard, would so regularly email at 4am to remind you of your seating at their latest hot show. There was no way you would ever want to miss their next big thing.

Unhidden, backstage at Paolo Carzana, Tamara with Tolu Coker, Tamara with Roksanda, Sarah Mower MBE with Maximilian Raynor.

Last night, I celebrated with Roksanda for her 20 years as a designer, having sat with Marina Ambramovic at her stunning show last Sunday (which reminded me of the power of an iconic front row), and I said it was a miracle to still be in business 20 years later to Roksanda. She laughed and then I corrected myself. As yes, on one level anyone in an industry which constantly hypes new, those who last are a miracle. But when leaving last night I corrected myself. It is because she is good, she has a rare talent and a real eye. Also she does the research. Roksanda marries the intellect with the aesthetic, and its this which makes her designs as relevant now as ever. Roksanda to me is as important as any Creative Director at a large Paris house. More so in many cases, as these are clothes designed by a woman for women to enjoy.

Here are the Fashion Roundtable round up of LFW ones to watch:

Harriet, the Textiles Researcher at Fashion Roundtable and Project Lead on the Great British Wool Revival attended the Kent and Curwen show. She loved seeing a heritage brand creating updated designs and hopes they will consider using British wool. Yes, she’s emailed them already…

Skye, our Social Media Assistant went to Ashish’s show for the first time and loved the 1960s love in energy of it all. Good vibes only. Me, I love what he does, I would just like to see him using biodegradable sequins from Future Fabrics Expo.

Roksanda, I covered. I came for the intelligent woman dress up and left on a high of spending time with an iconic artist who told me about the collaboration Abramovic is doing with Roksanda for her next show in Manchester. Cannot wait…

Maximilian Raynor at HiFi, styled by Karen Binns, our Fashion Director - now also Global Fashion Director at 10 and 10 Men. Loved the David Lynch vibes, worried the balloons and cake would go up in flames from the candles (they didn’t) and loved that John Smedley, who are recent partners for The Great British Wool Revival also supported this show with a knitwear collab. Knitwear, but make it British, big tick.

OXFAM x Vinted, styled by Bay Garnett. I loved the casting, the styling, and sitting next to Jane Shepherdson on the FROW. The best ever British costume designer, Sandy Powell, in orange lace up boots and a tweed cape, Jade Parfitt as the bride with her daughters as sweetly nervous lilac satin dressed bridesmaids, and the nod to Rivals season 2 in so many of the joyous looks.

Tolu Coker at 180 Studios. She has been on my radar for years. I insisted she was part of the Global Britain, Local Stories showcase we hosted at the V&A back in 2019. She was as erudite then as now, and it got even more meta when her mother heckled from the audience. This season a film shot with her brother and Naomi Campbell showed when talent collaborates, it rises, rooted in a respect for culture, heritage and family values.

Unhidden, for showing the power of the purple pound (£274bn to the UK economy annually), I could not be prouder of Victoria Jenkins who has been the best advocate for an adaptive fashion brand, building partnerships with Primark, Lucy and Yak and working with the V&A on their recent Design and Disability exhibition. Victoria was co-chair of Fashion Roundtable’s Representation and Inclusion Committee and I have been a keen advocate of what she is doing for years.

Paolo Carzana, for the natural dyes, the flora, fauns and fauna supercasting and the poetry of his sweetest gaze. That, and the standing ovation from Sir Paul Smith. Well deserved. A good fashion moment.

Burberry for the icons. Ab Fab’s Patsy, Edina and the original British supermodel Twiggy (catch documentary of her life on BBC iPlayer) on the FROW, rooted in tradition, seated in irony, perfectly British.

Both Barbour and Burberry showed at London Fashion Week. Across this month we have the inaugural London Textile Month, which Fashion Roundtable have been proud to support, as well as London Design Festival, where we have been busy hosting talks, events and partnerships. Next month sees Wool Month, which will be a celebration of this amazing natural fibre with events on Savile Row and around the country. I defy anyone to walk around Jermyn Street and Savile Row and not see the British talent in tailoring that we do best. Anderson and Sheppard, Hilditch and Key. Brands made to last. Beyond seasons, timeless elegance. The welltrodden path of the great British dandy. And the birthplace of the suit.

This is our superpower, not the flashbulbs and hype, but the heritage skills, crafts and fibres embedded in British talent, tradition and innovation. That to me is where the magic happens: the intangible sweet spot of good design, sharp ideas, future proof clothing.

There is a Venn diagram in this I am sure, and in that brilliant intersection is where Fashion Roundtable’s values of heritage, craft, diversity and skills weave their potent magic.

Tamara x