Fashion Roundtable's Political Expert Navjyot Lehl on The Brexit Impact Report 2021

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By Navjyot Lehl

The Trade and Cooperation Agreement (TCA) may have been signed off by both the UK and EU, but the aftershocks of Brexit are not over; especially when it comes to fashion.

As the latest Brexit impact report from Fashion Roundtable has shown, there is still plenty to mull over on the economical and social implications of Brexit for the UK’s fashion retail and textiles industry.

Joining forces with over 455 business leaders across the sector in January of this year, Fashion Roundtable have collated key data and insights to share the most recent impact assessment from the current state of the UK-EU trade deal with 59% of respondents saying they have experienced a negative impact following the transition period, in terms of customs costs, tariff changes and fluctuating exchange rates.

It would be remiss of us not to mention the pandemic, which has been a significant disruptor for brands and retailers trying to prepare for Brexit. According to the Confederation of British Industry, 54% of businesses said that preparation for Brexit had been negatively affected by COVID-19, especially problematic for a sector reliant on trade to European markets.

The decision to move senior City dealmakers to the EU as a result of Brexit could trigger a similar manoeuvre in other sectors, of which the fashion industry would not be immune, especially as 75% of businesses were concerned over the loss of freedom of movement for goods and services and 69% worried about the delays to exports and imports.

The #Dontmakefashionhistory campaign has been making inroads in raising awareness and bringing together experts from the fashion industry to highlight the key issues, impacts and unforeseen consequences of Brexit, in particular worker’s right, movement of goods and immigration.

In an open letter to the Government, the campaign received cross-parliamentary support with signatories, from industry leaders across manufacturing, journalism and education.

So, what needs to be done? This report is calling for solutions including to name a few:

·       frictionless travel for fashion creatives and businesses between the UK and EU-27 member states 

·       The UK agreeing to work toward bilateral agreements with the EU 27 member states

·       Secure a cabotage exemption for the creative and cultural sector – similar to the one that enables the Formula 1 industry to move large amounts of equipment across borders easily.

·       Incentivise on-shoring with tax relief for those brands who manufacture in the UK, as the UK film industry currently enjoys

·       Equal support for the fashion industry for exports to the EU as enjoyed by the fishing industry.

·       Introduce a fit to trade licensing scheme to tackle labour exploitation in UK garment factories to improve the enforcement of UK employment law standards.

With an industry that contributes £35 billion to the UK’s GDP (more than the fishing and automotive industries combined), it is surprising the fashion sector has not received the attention it deserves in the Brexit maelstrom.

Hopefully, this report, will be a step in the right direction in encouraging a much broader and richer dialogue, in the months ahead.

You can read Fashion Roundtable’s latest Brexit impact report here.

Navjyot Lehl is a graduate of LSE and has worked at the Houses of Parliament for two MPs, backbencher Glenda Jackson and front bencher Seema Malhotra Chair of Fabian Women during her time as Shadow Chief Secretary to the Treasury. Nav is now part of the team at the leading think tank UK In A Changing Europe, which focuses on European and UK relations.