Press Release - Fashion Roundtable supports The Government To implement A Waste Strategy For A More Responsible, Circular Fashion Industry
A new report Released By Fashion Roundtable supports The Government To implement A Waste Strategy For A More Responsible, Circular Fashion Industry
London, 18th October 2022 // PRESS RELEASE
Fashion Roundtable releases a report addressing new policy opportunities and a strategy for the fashion industry waste in response to a request by UK government department DEFRA. DEFRA asked Fashion Roundtable to send them in-depth analysis on 3 key areas: Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), fibres, and recycling and returns. DEFRA is looking at how to implement greater transparency in the fashion and textiles industry through legislation.
Tamara Cincik, CEO of Fashion Roundtable said: “We were very happy to help The Government by collating research and evidence for this Waste Strategy report. The end-of-life story for our clothes is going to be the next big issue facing businesses and consumers. We all thought for many years that giving to charity, or putting items in the recycling bin was enough. Clearly, given the work of The Or Foundation and other organisations in the Global South, it isn’t. We hope that our analysis and subsequent report will support The Government towards legislation which enables the industry towards greater sustainability and transparency targets, as we are seeing in the EU with their strategy for sustainable and circular textiles.”
Points include:
Extended Producer Responsibility
Second hand clothes exports from global north donations / ‘recyclers’ to the Global South and the extremely serious environmental and cultural problems they are causing for the recipient nations. Fashion Roundtable proposes Extended Producer Responsibility that would allow exporters only to send to countries who have a similar level of textile processing facility is very weak, problematic and will be rendered ineffectual if those countries in turn are not also beholden to such measures as they will simply be passing the unwanted volumes onto other countries in the region. There must be much tougher proposals that can genuinely prevent dumping.
Preservation of Skills and Methods
The preservation of heritage skills and methods for textile and clothing design and making. Practical in real life (not digital) spaces that create training opportunities and permanent spaces for textile craft preservation, development and trade, rooted in localised resources, regenerative agriculture and women’s empowerment initiatives (in the Global North and the Global South). Investment in spinning facilities that are placed close to fibre production zones. Garment worker welfare and prevention of exploitation by the largest fast fashion retailers who are largely responsible.
Strengthen IP Law
To protect UK endangered textiles knowledge and skills and maintain an industry which could be a key-player in slowing fashion and reducing waste, it is important that fashion products are not able to damage heritage artisans through appropriation practices. At present IP law, and geographical indications are not fit for purpose to protect heritage textile communities and their cultural products. IP law is designed for brands and individuals not communities, and GI is acceptable for food and agriculture or but not for crafts and designs that have the right to evolve and exist outside of a set method, or aesthetic. Custodians of textile knowledge need a fit-for-purpose protection to avoid fashion co-opting the aesthetic without investing in the artisans and communities. There must be Investment in fibre production at a local level (localising the supply chain - less of a carbon footprint) - scouring, spinning etc.
Read the Waste Strategy report here.
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Notes to editors
DEFRA, the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs is a department of His Majesty's Government responsible for environmental protection, food production and standards, agriculture, fisheries and rural communities in the United Kingdom.
The Or Foundation, works at the intersection of environmental justice, education and fashion development, their mission is to identify and manifest alternatives to the dominant model of fashion – alternatives that bring forth ecological prosperity, as opposed to destruction, and that inspire citizens to form a relationship with fashion that extends beyond their role as consumer.
About Fashion Roundtable
Fashion Roundtable is the only think tank dedicated to reimagining a creative and responsible fashion industry, acting as secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) which relates to the sector and sustainability - the APPG for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion.
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