Fashion and the Uighur Crisis Explained: How retailers are entangled in allegations of genocide and forced labour in Xinjiang

By Clara Buckens 

As China retaliates against transatlantic sanctions over the Xinjiang region, Western fashion brands are torn between Chinese boycott threats and the human rights concerns raised by governments and investors.

On 22nd March this year, allegations of mass detainment, mistreatment, forced labour and even genocide in the Xinjiang region of China culminated in coordinated sanctions imposed by the UK, US, EU and Canada targeting four senior officials in the region. The EU also froze the assets of the Xinjiang Production and Construction Company (XPCC). China has retaliated by sanctioning ten EU officials and four entities for ‘maliciously spreading lies and disinformation’.

Reportedly between one and three million Turkic Muslims, predominantly Uighurs are being detained. There are concerns that consumer goods sourced from the region are tainted with forced labour, especially clothing.  Apparel and footwear represent the two single largest categories of exports from Xinjiang. It is estimated 85% of China’s cotton exports and 20% of the world’s cotton comes from the Xinjiang region, all of which is allegedly linked to forced labour. 

Many prison camps are run by the XPCC, which is responsible for over 37% of the region’s cotton production. There is evidence that Uighurs living in South Xinjiang, where there are fewer prison camps, are also trapped in coercive and indentured labour.

On 25th March, China also acted against brands and retailers who had cut ties with suppliers linked to the region over forced labour claims, notably H&M and Nike. Several of their stores were closed and the Chinese government has encouraged a boycott of these brands. "Pure and flawless Xinjiang cotton cannot allow any forces to smear or blacken it," Chinese officials have said, saying businesses should not “politicise economic behaviours”.

This could result in significant losses. China has the largest national clothing demand, buying 40 of the world 107 billion clothing units sold annually. In February, Uniqlo overtook Zara as the world’s most valuable fashion brand. This was largely credited to strategising for the Chinese market.

However, there is also pressure for brands to take a stance against China. On March 30th, The Investor Alliance for Human Rights announced its members are escalating engagement with brands active it the Xinjiang region citing increased concern over human rights risks. 

Caught in the middle, many retailers are avoiding taking a stance on Xinjiang sourcing. Intidex, which was among the retail groups pointedly cutting ties with suppliers linked to the Xinjiang region in 2020 has apparently taken down its statement on zero tolerance to forced labour stating the group ‘does not have any relations with any factories in Xinjiang’.

The Chinese people appear to support their governments action and defend Xinjiang cotton. “As far as I’m concerned, I think Xinjiang cotton is my sweetheart, my love, which is to say I’m very grateful it has brought me such happiness,” said Chinese designer Zhou Ling after her fashion show on March 30th. Japanese brands Uniqlo and Muji are proudly labelling Xinjiang cotton, as one might Australian Down.

While evidence of China’s abuse of the Uighur people is undoubtable, China’s claims that Western policy is hypocritical and anti-Chinese resonate. The US declared the treatment of Uighurs to be genocide on Trump’s (known anti-Chinese rhetoric) last day as President, suggesting this was a political act as well as a humanitarian one.

It is important to remember that fashion retailers demand their suppliers produce as cheaply as possible and therefore encourage subcontracting from suppliers who are cutting costs through labour abuse, slavery and poor environmental practice. Beyond the Uighur crisis, Fast Fashion systematically abuses its labour force. Beyond demanding freedom for Uighurs, we must also demand that fashion retailers adjust their scale and better share risks, costs and profits.

If you would like to catch up with the minutes from the latest APPG session on the Uighur crisis, as well as the broader issues of labour exploitation, modern slavery and the legislative action that the UK Government must take, click here.