Overview of the Fashion & Economic Value Report 2024

As the election period is nearing its conclusion, I wanted to provide you with pivotal insights from our latest report, "Fashion & Economic Value Report 2024." This report underscores the significant contributions and future potential of the UK fashion sector and outlines critical recommendations for driving sustainability, inclusivity, and economic resilience within the industry.

Overview of the Fashion & Economic Value Report 2024

Our latest report illuminates the vast contributions of the UK's fashion sector, which generates approximately £60 billion annually—nearly half of the total economic impact from the UK's creative industries. It explores the economic influence, regional growth, and pivotal role in sustainability and innovation of the fashion industry. Here are the key findings and recommendations from the report:

Key Findings:

1. Economic Impact: Fashion is the largest of the UK's creative industries, contributing around £60 billion per year to the economy and employing 1.3 million people.

2. Regional Growth: The fashion industry supports regional economies, with notable increases in fashion businesses in Scotland and employment growth in Manchester.

3. Sustainability Challenges: The industry faces significant challenges related to sustainable manufacturing practices and the environmental impact of fast fashion.

Recommendations:

1. Prioritise UK Manufacturing: Given the economic contribution of the fashion industry, it is crucial to prioritize keeping and expanding clothing manufacturing in the UK to boost economic growth.

2. Support Regenerative Practices: Introduce tax and financial incentives to support regenerative and sustainable practices, ensuring skilled jobs can be developed to underpin local economies.

3. Increase Responsibilities of Fast Fashion: Implement laws to hold fast fashion companies accountable for their environmental impact, preventing them from skewing the market in a damaging way.

4. Develop Recycling Infrastructure: Work with the private sector to unlock funding and space needed to develop textile recycling centres, creating jobs and supporting local economies.

5. Encourage Fashion Startups: Monitor the success of fashion startups and ensure university curriculums equip students with the necessary business skills to thrive in the evolving fashion industry.

6. Integrate Fashion in Devolved Powers: Consider the role of the fashion industry when allocating funding and powers to devolved areas, ensuring local strategies support regional economic growth.

The fashion industry remains a cornerstone of the UK economy, previously the fastest-growing creative industry in the country. Our report provides a comprehensive overview of the current landscape and proposes actionable solutions for leading in sustainability, social justice, increased social mobility, and boosting UK GDP.

We urge all political parties to incorporate these recommendations into their post-election strategies. This is a pivotal moment to ensure a sustainable, inclusive, and prosperous future for the UK fashion industry.

We also seek your support in raising awareness about our work and the critical issues outlined in our report. By highlighting these key findings and recommendations, you can help drive the necessary changes that will benefit the entire fashion sector and beyond.

For further details or to arrange an interview, please feel free to reach out to Jane in cc.

You can read the full report here.

Delivering a Sector Vision for the Fashion and Textile industry

Image: Panellists and Chair from left to right: Junior Bishop, Clare Press, Tamara Cincik, Chair John McNally MP, Dominique Muller, Julia Roebuck, Maria Chenoweth. Credit Steve Watson.

On the 22nd February 2024, Fashion Roundtable as Secretariat of the Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion All-Party Parliamentary Group delivered their sector vision for the fashion, textiles, manufacturing and retail industries to leading figures in the sector. 

John McNally MP and Fashion Roundtable’s CEO, Tamara Cincik, chaired a poignant panel discussion about the future of the sector. Panellists included, Junior Bishop – a Zebedee Model and Advocate for Minority Groups; Clare Press – Fashion Roundtable’s Global Sustainability Expert, Author and Podcast Host of the Wardrobe Crisis; Julia Roebuck – Volunteer Director of Thread Republic (Mend Assembly Affiliate); Maria Chenoweth – Co-founder of Charity Super.Mkt; Dominique Muller from Labour Behind the Label.

Talking points encompassed representation and inclusion; the effects of Artificial Intelligence on the modelling sector; the Creative Wellbeing Economy; Clare Press’s research on reimagining the sector; social prescribing and third-sector initiatives; the purposeful use of vacant spaces with the example of Charity Super.Mkt and worker rights.

The meeting provided an opportunity for Fashion Roundtable to share recommendations based on evidence from a number of key sector roundtables, an industry wide snap survey and meetings with stakeholders. Fashion Roundtable identified the following top-line issues with clear recommendations for each:

• Restriction-free movement for UK talent who wish to work in Europe and a reduction in red tape for the transportation of goods between the UK and EU.

• The UK committing to Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) to support the transition of the industry’s annual carbon footprint of 3.3 billion tonnes CO2e to Net Zero by 2050. 

• The reinstating of the VAT Retail Export Scheme with an estimated economy boost of £10bn a year according to current data.

• Regenerating high streets to support UK businesses and protect local communities.

• Greater support for on-shoring, a commitment to British made and a strengthening of public procurement.

• Investment in UK manufacturing through consistent and secure orders. 

• Support for the UK as a place of decent work for garment workers.

• Ratify the UNESCO Convention of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

• Return to STEAM education.

• Initiatives for UK workers from working-class backgrounds to access training and employment in the creative industries.

• Support for more inclusivity in the fashion sector.

• Rejoining of the Erasmus + Programme.

• Artificial Intelligence (AI) and support of creative intellectual property (IP). 

• Food and fibre sovereignty. 

• Creative Wellbeing – Support for access to meaningful and rewarding work through a revaluing of craft, creativity, community, intersectionality and inclusivity. 

Image: Chairs John McNally MP and Tamara Cincik. Credit Steve Watson.

Fashion Roundtable’s recommendations can be viewed here.

Fashion Roundtable also launched their Creative Wellbeing Economy paper, a living document which places people and planet in an interwoven symbiotic relationship: revaluing locality, creativity, and enhancing accessibility to transformative tools and opportunities as links in a newly formed chain of opportunity from cradle to grave. 

Chair John McNally MP said:

“Once again the ESF APPG had a full attendance with a packed room of business representatives and academics alike. What was really interesting is the wider range of ages and diversity that attend, probably, the best attended APPG at Parliament.

“This APPG has provided so much information from the guest speakers and also the attendees who care deeply about this industry and how everyone engages with one another – it’s a pleasure to witness.

“The recommendations are there for everyone to read and understand how important the work that the Secretariat provides in pulling all this information together and to produce such a readable document.

“It is apparent that everyone who attends appreciates the effort, thought and expertise, and the knowledge in no small measure our professional Secretariat and guest speakers provide to all the attendees.”

Tamara Cincik, CEO, Fashion Roundtable said: 

“I was delighted to deliver our sector vision in the build up to a General Election to the packed Parliamentary room filled with policy makers, industry leaders and academic experts. Our values and concerns are of paramount importance as politicians from across the political divide consider their manifesto pledges. We hope that our sector vision and key recommendations will help them to deliver those effectively and show understanding and commitment to our valuable sector and its stakeholders.”

Meg Pirie, Fashion Roundtable said:

"In writing these policy recommendations we have focused on long-term system’s change for the sector. The Creative Wellbeing Economy turns the 'growth-at-all-costs' paradigm on its head and reimagines something much deeper, that offers communities an opportunity to thrive outside of the current system. This focuses on long-term policies which put people and the planet first – valuing localism, food and fibre sovereignty, the preservation of cultural heritage and hyper-local placemaking. This is a living document and will forever evolve, but is the first step to a much-needed system's change within the fashion sector."

Make it British and Fashion Roundtable host industry roundtable with Baroness Jane Bonham-Carter and the Liberal Democrat Creative Network on the impacts of Brexit on the fashion sector

image of Kate Hills and Tamara Cincik in the House of Lords.

Topic: How Brexit has impacted the British fashion sector and what we can do about it

House of Lords, London, 31st January 2024  // PRESS RELEASE

On the 31st January 2024, Fashion Roundtable along with Make it British, hosted an industry-focused roundtable discussion with Baroness Jane Bonham-Carter – the Liberal Democrat Lords Spokesperson for Culture Media and Sport, as well as the Liberal Democrat Creative Network and the Liberal Democrat DCMS Parliamentary Group. 

Chaired by Fashion Roundtable’s CEO, Tamara Cincik, as well as Charles Brand, the Chair of the Liberal Democrat Creative Network, those who gave evidence at the roundtable included Kate Hills – CEO of Make it British; John Horner – CEO of Models 1 and the Chair of the British Fashion Model Agents Association (BFMA); Sylvie Freund Pickavance – Global Strategy and Business Development Director, Value Retail; Alexander Wills – Founder of Maake; Zowie Broach – Head of Programme, MA Fashion at the Royal College of Art; Paul Alger – Director of International Affairs at UK Fashion & Textile Association; Rachel Walker – Founder of Luxury Lockstitch. 

The purpose of the roundtable was to discuss the main challenges that post-Brexit agreements were posing to the British fashion sector, providing an opportunity for the top-line issues of Brexit to be heard. 

With the majority of the UK manufacturing sector made up of SMEs, the roundtable heard that Brexit has compounded a skills shortage. Issues of freedom of movement in both goods as well as talent as well as a massive impact to the luxury sector, tourism and hospitality due to the removal of the UK VAT Retail Scheme. 

Tamara Cincik, CEO, Fashion Roundtable said: 

“The impacts of Brexit have always been well understood by the fashion industry, who since Fashion Roundtable’s inception, have consistently told us the issues they face and the impacts this is having on the sector, from the loss of reputation, to the severity of the delays and cost of red tape, as well as unilateral decisions by the UK Government to end the lucrative VAT Retail Export Scheme, which Sylvie Freund-Pickavance cited could generate £10bn in terms of sales, hospitality and tourism for the UK economy and rebuild the UK’s reputation, as Paris not London is now the number 1 tourist destination of choice within Europe, impacting sales, spend and jobs.”

Kate Hills – CEO of Make it British said: 

“UK garment and textile manufacturing is made up of thousands of micro businesses, and these roundtables are essential to get the voices of those businesses heard."

Baroness Jane Bonham-Carter the Liberal Democrat Lords Spokesperson for Culture Media and Sport said:

“Yesterday’s presentation of the serious issues facing the Fashion Industry highlighted not only the self-inflicted damage caused by post Brexit regulations but also a serious growing skills shortage. The Liberal Democrats will redouble efforts to highlight ways that the Government could undo some of the damage done.”

Charles Brand, the Chair of the Liberal Democrat Creative Network said: 

“Yesterday’s briefing meeting organised by the Fashion Roundtable and Make It British, laid out the shocking damage done by post Brexit regulations and the associated skills shortages to what was until recently a world beating expanding industry. We will work to publicise the need for Government to urgently focus on coming up with solutions.” 

Notes to Editors:

Baroness Jane Bonham-Carter is the Liberal Democrat Lords Spokesperson for Culture Media and Sport. 

The Liberal Democrat Creative Network is the forum for people who work in or support the creative industries.

Fashion Roundtable is the only think tank dedicated to reimagining a creative and responsible fashion industry. 

Make it British is a membership organisation, supporting UK brands. Founded by UK manufacturing expert Kate Hills. 

For more information please contact:

Meg Pirie, Fashion Roundtable’s Content Editor – meg.pirie@fashionroundtable.co.uk  

Press Release: Leading figures from UK Fashion attend Roundtable with Labour’s Shadow minister at the Design Museum

Topic: How can Labour support the British fashion industry?

Design Museum, London, 30th January 2024  // PRESS RELEASE

Image shows Sarah Mower MBE with Sir Chris Bryant. Photo Credit: Steve Watson

On the 30th January 2024, Fashion Roundtable, along with Shadow Minister for Creative Industries and Digital, Sir Chris Bryant, hosted a roundtable with the Parliamentary Labour Party where industry leaders outlined the opportunities and challenges faced by the British fashion sector. 

The roundtable was preceded by a tour of the Design Museum’s ‘REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion’ exhibition by Guest Curator Sarah Mower MBE. This allowed for the context of how politics and fashion could be a power play for the UK when combined effectively.

Chaired by Fashion Roundtable’s CEO, Tamara Cincik, speakers for the subsequent roundtable included Sarah Mower MBE – the British Fashion Council's Ambassador for Emerging Talent, Chair of the NEWGEN committee and Guest Curator of the Design Museum’s ‘REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion’ exhibition; John Horner – CEO of Models 1 and the Chair of the British Fashion Model Agents Association (BFMA); Kate Hills – CEO of Make it British; Professor Dilys Williams – Head of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UAL; and Sylvie Freund Pickavance – Global Strategy and Business Development Director, Value Retail. 

The meeting provided an opportunity for stakeholders within the sector to be heard and provided a strong overview of the current landscape of the British fashion sector. From opportunities for international business; British made and owned fashion procurement and onshoring opportunities; end-of-life strategies; barriers and opportunities for NEW GEN as well as existing talent within the UK and global markets; and a means for creative education to recentre sustainability within the curriculum. The EU has 16 pieces of legislation already in place for the fashion and textiles sector and it was noted that the UK has an opportunity to align and develop a sector which can operate in the local and global market with ease. 

Tamara Cincik, CEO, Fashion Roundtable said: 

“In the countdown to a General Election it is so important that the fashion industry is part of the policy making debate as political parties create their Manifesto pledges to us the electorate. The roundtable hosted at The Design Museum was a fantastic opportunity for key voices from across fashion, design, education, manufacturing and retail to discuss issues and opportunities with Sir Chris Bryant in his role as Shadow Minister for Creative Industries and Digital.

“The General Election is a chance for the UK to revalue our fantastic creative industries, a vanguard fashion industry and commit to bringing public procurement back to the UK, reinstating the VAT Retail Export Scheme to lure tourists back to the UK, as well as supporting our world-class leaders in sustainable and heritage fashion and textiles. I am hopeful that we can not only fix the problems but build these solutions together.”

Shadow Minister for Creative Industries and Digital, Sir Chris Bryant said: 

“The UK has a phenomenal set of talented individuals and international fashion brands that mean we can excel in a way no other country can. We bring verve, passion, edge and commercial savvy to the table. There are big challenges for the industry and Labour is determined to work with industry to make sure no talent is wasted.”

Image shows John Horner, Founder of Models 1 and Chair of the BFMA with Sir Chris Bryant.

Notes to Editors:

Sir Chris Bryant is the Shadow Minister for Creative Industries and Digital.

The Parliamentary Labour Party (PLP) is the parliamentary group of the Labour Party in Parliament.

Fashion Roundtable is the only think tank dedicated to reimagining a creative and responsible fashion industry. 

For more information please contact:

Meg Pirie, Fashion Roundtable’s Content Editor – meg.pirie@fashionroundtable.co.uk  

PRESS RELEASE: Fashion Roundtable Hosts Meeting With Parliamentary Labour Party About The Impacts Of Brexit And Poor Policy On British Fashion

Image shows meeting in progress. 

PRESS RELEASE 

STEPS TO STOP The Death Of The British Fashion Industry: Industry Leaders Met With The Parliamentary Labour Party To Discuss The Impacts Of Brexit And Poor Policy On British Fashion

Topic: From Designers to Distribution, How Can Labour Support the Fashion Industry?

London, 23rd May 2023 // PRESS RELEASE

On the 17th May 2023, Fashion Roundtable, along with Shadow Minister Stephanie Peacock MP, hosted a meeting with the Parliamentary Labour Party where industry leaders outlined the dire need for urgent action for the British fashion sector, which was at one time the fastest growing creative industry in the United Kingdom. 

Chaired by Fashion Roundtable’s CEO, Tamara Cincik, speakers included Stephanie Peacock MP; Kate Hills, CEO, Make It British; Alexander Wills, Founder and Director, Fashion Formula; Julian Vogel, CEO, ModusBPCM; John Horner, CEO Models 1, Chair BFMA; Carson McColl, Co-founder, Hard + Shiny and Creative Director, Gareth Pugh Studio; Karen Binns, Fashion Director, Fashion Roundtable; Professor Dilys Williams, Head of Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UAL. 

The meeting gave an overview of the current landscape for UK-based manufacturers and the key challenges and proposed solutions to support the sector to lead on sustainability, social justice, increased social mobility for working-class children, and increased revenue for UK GDP. The UK is not currently on the forefront of legislation coming out of the EU and needs to be more aligned and active with developments to enable the sector to operate in a global market. 

Tamara Cincik, CEO, Fashion Roundtable said: “Fashion is core to culture and business, as the largest of the creative industries, it was the fastest growing sector until recently and a massive employer. UK talent leads in work across sustainability, social impact and digital initiatives, but it needs support from the government if it is to thrive and not drive our talent to relocate due to a combination of a lack of support, overwhelming red tape and critical underinvestment. That is why a meeting attended by Stephanie Peacock MP, Shadow Culture Minister, was so important for stakeholders to communicate their frustrations and outline key priorities and ambitions to drive opportunities for the UK at this critical time in the build up to a General Election.”

Shadow Minister, Stephanie Peacock MP said: “The fashion industry contributes tens of billions of pounds to the UK economy, from mainly small and medium sized businesses across the country. I am thankful to all the experts who joined the Labour Party and myself in Parliament to discuss the industry at our roundtable. It was great to hear directly from them and learn about what the industry needs to thrive in the UK.”

Points To Note: 

Market Competition 

Stakeholders confirmed that brands and manufacturers are finding it difficult to retain market share and remain competitive when many other brands offer cheaper prices due to producing lesser quality items, made under different factory conditions. There is vast competition from suppliers, brands and retailers who are not abiding by UK standards which Professor Dilys Williams, attributed as a ‘licence to do harm’.

Employment, Skills, Retention, Training, Education 

Due to Brexit and a lack of EU-skilled workers willing or able to work in the UK, the sector is unable to meet the level of employment required. UK residents do not have the skills or desire to work in a factory/supply chain and retaining skilled workers is very difficult. Kate Hills, CEO of Make It British, offered that while the UK does have world class universities that are creating hundreds of designers, there are not enough people who want to work in roles such as factories, machinists, product development etc. 

Freedom Of Movement 

All stakeholders agreed that the industry is now in a far worse position compared to the sector’s EU counterparts. Due to Brexit and visa requirements people are unable to work in the EU at short notice, which is a particularly difficult situation for freelance creatives, and especially for models who need to be physically in the place of proposed work before being booked. Julian Vogel, CEO of communications behemoth ModusBPCM stressed that the EU Entry/Exit System (EES), an automated system for registering travellers from the UK and other non-EU countries each time, will only exacerbate the situation. 

The industry also relies heavily on transporting samples for press, model fittings and production. Particularly new/smaller designers are finding it extremely challenging to operate and know how to enable their business to function in relation to this specific issue. Stakeholders were in agreement that it is now extremely difficult to import and export goods and components from other countries due to red tape and increased cost and timelines. 

Funding And Investment 

Overseas (EU) countries are given substantial funding to help promote their businesses internationally and this support does not happen in the UK. As the market has become more challenging brands who operate internationally are deciding to not invest in the UK as much as previous years. This is because their investment is based on sales in the local market. With the cost-of-living crisis and lack of overseas visitors, due to the VAT Retail Export Scheme, the UK is being overlooked and places such as Paris are now being chosen to open Flagship stores, leaving the UK lagging behind to create a competitive market place. 

Notes to Editors:

Stephanie Peacock is the Shadow Minister for Media, Data, and Digital Infrastructure.

The Parliamentary Labour Party (PLP) is the parliamentary group of the Labour Party in Parliament.

Fashion Roundtable is the only think tank dedicated to reimagining a creative and responsible fashion industry. 

For more information please contact:

admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk  |    www.fashionroundtable.co.uk

Fashion Roundtable Advises MPs On The Importance Of High-Street Regeneration

By Meg Pirie 

Source: Office of John McNally MP. Attendees at meeting.

Last week, in our capacity as Secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, Fashion Roundtable hosted a jam-packed meeting on regenerating the high street, sponsored by academics from Manchester Metropolitan University and Metropolis. 

Prior to this meeting, we had briefed the Chair of the APPG for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, John McNally MP, which prompted a question to the Prime Minister Rishi Sunak at Prime Minister’s Questions. The question centred around the “eat out to help out” scheme which was introduced in August 2020, which in turn increased the demand for eating in restaurants by 216% compared to 2019, and tasked the Prime Minister to consider a similar scheme for ‘bricks and mortar’ retail as part of the wider plan to regenerate local high streets –– ‘bricks vs clicks’, if you will. 

The meeting entitled, ‘Building Community Agency Through The Purposeful Use Of Unused Retail Spaces,’ was in direct response to the state of our high streets at a national level. Research conducted by Fashion Roundtable, provided evidence that the Covid-19 pandemic, Brexit, shifts to digital rather than ‘bricks and mortar’ shopping, and the ongoing cost-of-living crisis have changed consumer behaviour, alongside record retail closures. 

To offer a little more context, in 2021, PWC reported over 17,500 chain stores closed in 2020 alone. More recently, the Centre for Retail Research (CRR) recorded that retail closures affected 34,907 employees in 2022. A consumer survey by PWC suggested that the onus to repair the high street should not fall solely on retail solutions, while CRR suggested that remodelling large obsolete stores to add services such as clothing repair, cafes and concessions could provide a solution. 

Finally, the PWC survey showed that 44% of participants would prefer a focus on experiencing and exploring [a brand] rather than the only option being to purchase. Seemingly, this opens a discussion on the importance of experience, connection and community to rehabilitate the high street and locality, whilst stimulating local business. Also showcasing a clear opportunity to align investment to deliver town centres that reclaim maximum impact  with hyper-locality as a key focus. 

Source: Office of John McNally MP. Julia Roebuck speaking.

The event attracted speakers from across the country to share in detail about the opportunities and barriers to utilising vacant spaces in this way. Liz Twist MP (Labour Party), shared her concerns on the loss of the physical presence of retail on the high street and its impact on jobs in her constituency of Blaydon. Liz Twist called for a reform of business rates to take businesses out of their current ‘survival mode’.

While Maria Chenoweth, CEO of Traid and co-founder of Charity Super.Mkt weighed in on the benefits of utilising the vacant Topshop building in Brent Cross, where in just 6 weeks they sold 40,000 items and raised over £370,000. As a retailer with purpose in 12 weeks they have raised just under £600,000 and diverted 17 tonnes of clothes from landfill, while enabling many charities such as Havens Hospices to offer patients 1,000 hours of specialist end of life care, within their own homes, amongst helping many others in the process. 

Source: Office of John McNally MP. Left: Kemi Gbadebo, Right: Alison Carlin.

Alison Carlin, founder of Manchester Fashion Movement was also among speakers who had started the community interest company to empower, connect and engage people in a movement that sees communities around Greater Manchester better understand the benefits of approaching fashion with a more sustainable outlook whilst helping them recognise the real impact of the fashion industry and the important role we play as individuals.

One of the brands utilising the space was luxury, sustainable, streetwear brand, Gbadebo –– who specialise in reworking donated, damaged or unwanted textiles and transforming them into new, 90's-inspired streetwear pieces. Founder, Kemi Gbadebo said:

“Having worked with all levels of companies from grassroots like Manchester Fashion Movement to The North Face, Adidas and luxury retail like Flannels in the next couple months, it’s clear that on all levels companies are seeing the benefits of bringing in creatives and small businesses to bridge the gap and reimagine retail spaces on the high-street to provide engaging point of sale experiences for consumers.”

Source: Office of John McNally MP. Fashion Roundtable CEO Tamara Cincik.

To end the session, Julia Roebuck from Thread Republic, a Mend Assembly affiliate based in Huddersfield said: 

"It has been so inspiring to learn more about the innovative projects being developed and delivered by third-sector fashion and textile organisations around the UK. These organisations, and many more like them, are perfectly placed to explore new models of fashion and textile experiences on the high street that have sustainability at their core, providing many answers to the question of ‘what next’ for our town centres. 

“Whether it's providing new and exciting opportunities for citizens to source pre-loved clothing and textiles, supporting talented makers and independent clothing brands, learning new skills or enabling circularity, all of the innovations we heard about today lead to empowered communities, improved social cohesion and increased footfall on the high street"

Of the event, Manchester Met academic Professor Fiona Hackney commented:

"Shared concerns about the urgent need to change unsustainable fashion behaviours combined with the fear that we are fast losing our high streets ensured that this was a well-attended and stimulating event. MPs, fashion activists, brands, and agencies – many from Fashion Roundtable’s influential network – reviewed problems and responses, much of it based on hard-won, first-hand experience. The event enabled those working on the ground to re-imagine our fashion and retail system to talk to policy makers and meet other like-minded organisations from across the country.”

As a next step, Fashion Roundtable will be taking this work forward with a full report. You can click through to read the full briefing, as well as a look at John McNally’s question on high-street regeneration at PMQs below.

Click through to read the Briefing in full.

Click through to watch John McNally MP deliver his question at PMQs.

APPG for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion: Cleaning Up Fashion Report

For immediate release

New report from the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion urges the Government putting an end to exploitation and environmental harm

London, 12th July 2021 // The APPG for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion (ESF APPG), co-chaired by Catherine West MP and Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, release Cleaning Up Fashion Report.

Cleaning Up Fashion examines how the Government and other supportive actors can help amplify sustainability in action, recognising and supporting the work of pioneers and putting an end to exploitation and environmental harm. The report offers clear, evidence-based recommendations that deal with the causes and symptoms of a sector with massive market responsibility, that clothes us all and is global in its economic, environmental and social significance. The ESF APPG hosted a number of parliamentary evidence sessions exploring the issues, as well as conducting a survey with over 110 respondents ranging from business leaders to consumers.

Cleaning Up Fashion addresses the combined issues of worker exploitation, climate change and offers sustainable solutions to support sector transformation towards net zero and the levelling up agenda.

Policy recommendations and findings based on a series of parliamentary evidence sessions and survey research we have 5 recommendations to Government and 2 for industry which we believe would support the Government’s levelling up agenda, the Green Action Plan and commitment to net zero, with stronger legislation to address worker exploitation and environmental impacts across supply chains. 

Recommendations 

1. Collective action for net-zero Emissions

2. Resourcefulness for waste elimination

3. Expedite Modern Slavery Act legislative changes and introduce a garment adjudicator

4. Support for UK manufacturing and skills development

5. An overhaul of the current civil service system to provide a sector lead expert approach, rather than each sector working across multiple Whitehall departments

6. Tax Incentivising and funding to support onshoring of fashion manufacturing

7. Measures of success for a just transition and wellbeing economy

Catherine West MP and Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, Co-chairs of the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion: In light of the global pandemic and the evidence we have heard: from non payment of Bangladeshi factory workers, the Uyghur crisis with its implications on cotton manufacture and closer to home the Leicester scandal with its impacts on our fast fashion sector. This report outlines the escalating concerns and issues impacting the supply chain. The report also highlights the unsustainable consequences of the overproduction of garments and outlines the opportunities for a just transition towards a future wellbeing economy. This would support businesses to be more sustainable, workers to be paid fairly for their labour and scope the possibilities for innovation to support greater circularity of finite resources. In the lead up to COP26 we believe this was never more important or timely. 

Dilys Williams, Professor Dilys Williams, Special Adviser to the ESF APPG and Head of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion: Tinkering at the edges of change is not an option for a sector as critical to lives and livelihoods as critical in economic, environmental and social terms as fashion. Whilst there is a high level of awareness of the role of this sector in achieving climate justice, with clear actions that can be taken; a joined up approach across Governmental departments is needed and this needs to lead to action across industry and its infrastructure. We are not starting from scratch here, UK pioneers who demonstrate that sustainable prosperity can be achieved are already changing the paradigm: their criteria for success, based on social, economic, cultural and environmental prosperity, needs however to be recognised by the UK Government. That way the licence to do harm is taken away and the licence to prosper is re-defined.

Tamara Cincik, CEO & Founder, Fashion Roundtable: Cleaning Up Fashion, not only highlights the key issues facing the sector, it offers a roadmap to transform the sector and change policy to support success. We outline the haemorrhaging of the Earth’s finite resources to feed the monster that is escalating and utterly unsustainable over production of clothing, the race to the bottom on payments to garment workers and the need for a united coherent strategy from the Government in line with their commitment to net zero and eradicating modern slavery. This is an incredible piece of work that brings together many actors in a complex system. Something we are in a unique position to enable. Based on hearing evidence from a series of experts, our survey data and our unique work with Parliament, Government, brands and businesses, Cleaning Up fashion offers an opportunity to turn insights into action. Fashion is a fantastic, creative industry to work in, but it needs cleaning up, fast, if we are to support future talent, pay workers fairly, end the climate crisis and indeed have any future at all. 

Fjolla Kondirolli, Economics Researcher, Fashion Roundtable: The garment industry is one of the biggest employers worldwide, and it is a source of income for millions of people in developed and developing countries. Yet, it is characterized by poor working conditions, low pay and unpaid work, and job insecurity. Covid-19 has exposed the fragile position of garment workers in the fashion industry supply chain. Transparency on supplier lists, wages paid, and responsible purchasing practices is paramount to keeping fashion firms accountable in the public's eyes when it comes to these workers.

Laura Gibson, Head of Sustainability, Other Day: There is a clear need for improved collaboration and knowledge sharing throughout the fashion industry in order to rapidly advance the systemic change needed to decarbonise the supply chain and promote the equitable distribution of responsibility between stakeholders. This report highlights clear recommendations for how to improve the environmental and social sustainability of the UK Fashion industry inline with the aims of the Sustainable Development Goals and the hopes of a Just Transition. 

ENDS

Notes to editors 

Cleaning Up Fashion report can be downloaded online from Fashion Roundtable here

Cleaning Up Fashion was authored by Fashion Roundtable, secretariat to the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion (ESF APPG), with written contributions from; Professor Dilys Williams, Special Adviser to the ESF APPG and Head of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion and Laura Gibson, Head of Sustainability, Other Day.

The report aims to outline the complex current issues, both environmental and ethical, facing the global supply chain on a national and international level, looking both at UK based micro brands (MSEs) and larger internationally renowned brands. The report explores long term sustainable solutions, with key recommendations for both policy makers and business leaders. These recommendations, if actioned, would not only mitigate against the potential suffering of garment workers at the bottom of the supply chain everywhere from Leicester to Xinjiang; they would also address the escalating impacts of the fashion industry on the environment’s finite resources, as a consequence of consumer choices based on an unsustainable and untransparent fashion business models.

The ESF APPG received over 110 submissions to this inquiry, ranging from industry leaders to consumers, through an industry survey and written evidence. It also heard oral evidence from: Basic Premier, Labour Behind the Label, Anti-Slavery International, University of Leeds, Denim Expert Ltd, Traidcraft, King's College London, University of Leicester, Corporate Justice Coalition (previously CORE), the UK Anti-Slavery Commissioner Dame Sara Thornton, First Mile, The Ethical Fashion Initiative, University of Manchester, Dublin City University, Awaj Foundation, Human Trafficking Foundation, Centre for Social Justice, ASOS, TRAID, University of Nottingham's Rights Lab, HURR Collective, Birdsong, Fashion Enter, Compare Ethics, Make It British, Protection Approaches, Uyghur Human Rights Project, IndustriALL Global Union, Worker Rights Consortium, World Uyghur Congress as well as several academics and experts. This report makes specific and direct reference to research carried out to investigate the aims, values and working practices of fashion micro and small (MSE) businesses embedding sustainability within their enterprises. We engage on a regular basis with Governmental departments, including the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (BEIS), the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) and the Home Office on sustainability, business opportunities and labour exploitation in the fashion industry.

Key findings from ESF APPG’s survey are as follows:

72% of respondents self-certified at the top level of concern about the climate crisis

24.5% of respondents self-certified at the top level of concern about the impact of COVID-19 on their business

43% of respondents chose the top level of concern when asked how problematic they believed the issue of Modern Slavery in the UK was. 

53% of respondents expressed a clear preference for a focus on onshoring.

30% noted the benefits that onshoring could provide but recognised the complexity of such a move for the impacts both in the UK and globally.

33% of respondents explicitly mentioned Government action when asked what changes need to be made to work toward a more sustainable future in the fashion industry.

58% of responses highlighted an industry recommendation. 

Notes to editors: 

The All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability (ESF APPG) was launched in 2011. The ESF APPG is co-chaired by Catherine West MP and Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey. Members include: John McNally MP, Karen Bradley MP, Caroline Nokes MP, Baron Vaizey of Didcot, Lord Young of Norwood Green, Claudia Webbe MP, Siobhan Baillie MP, Caroline Lucas MP, Dr Lisa Cameron MP, Sharon Hodgson MP.

Fashion Roundtable is an advocacy organisation that supports the fashion industry and Government to shift towards a more representative, equal and sustainable future. We ignite effective discourse between fashion industry and policy leaders; Front Row to Front Bench.

Fashion Roundtable is the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion and also the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion chaired by Dr Lisa Cameron MP.

All reports available online at Fashion Roundtable

https://www.fashionroundtable.co.uk/reports

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For more information: 

www.fashionroundtable.co.uk

E: admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk

Press Release: Fashion Roundtable release Brexit: The Impact on the Fashion Industry report

Fashion Industry calls for post-Brexit support

London, Thursday 6th May 2021

Fashion Roundtable release Brexit: The Impact on the Fashion Industry report with key recommendations to support the fashion industry to survive and thrive post Brexit

Following on from Fashion Roundtable’s 2018 Brexit and the Fashion Industry paper and  #Don't Make Fashion History campaign, we have collated key data and insights to share the most recent impact assessment from the current state of the UK-EU trade deal on the fashion, textiles and fashion retail industry. These insights have been used to form key recommendations, which if the Government could implement would enable the fashion industry to support businesses to not only survive but thrive post-Brexit.

Industry Engagement and Survey

To inform the Brexit: The Impact on the Fashion Industry report, Fashion Roundtable engaged industry leaders and business owners with a snap survey on Brexit and the Impact on the Fashion Industry over 2 weeks in January - February 2021. 

Principle Results

59% say Brexit has impacted their business since the end of the transition

77% said they expect to be affected post-lockdown

25% said they have considered relocating all or part of their businesses

15% said they might consider relocating all or part of their businesses

91% say they want a visa that allows creative access to EU countries cheaply and quickly

39% said if offered tax relief they would be more likely to localise manufacturing 

39% saying they might consider onshoring

Recommendations

Below are 11 key recommendations to the Government that would enable the fashion industry to support businesses to not only survive but thrive post-Brexit.

1. Add garment workers to the Shortage Occupation List for Visas

2. Reinstate the VAT Retail Export Scheme and extend to EU visitors

3. Reconsider visa requirements for fashion creatives

4. Close the gap on problems surrounding the rules of origin

5. Subsidise or scrap ATA carnets for travelling creatives

6. Begin the Craft and Design T-Level course in September 2021

7. Establish clarity on the issue of unregistered design rights

8. Incentivise onshoring with tax relief for those brands who manufacture in the UK, as the UK film industry currently enjoys

9. Secure a cabotage exemption for the creative and cultural sector – similar to the one that enables the Formula 1 industry to move large amounts of equipment across borders easily

10. Equal support for the fashion industry for exports to the EU as enjoyed by the fishing industry with their £23m package for a 12,000 workforce generating £1.4bn GVA, versus £2,000 grants available for all of the UK’s 617,600 SMEs

11. Build a robust IP framework into all trade deals

Catherine West MP, Chair of the APPG for Ethics & Sustainability in Fashion: “The Government’s levelling up agenda post-Brexit must include an absolute commitment to safeguarding and expanding workers’ rights, particularly for workers at the bottom of the supply chain. Over several months, the APPG for Ethics & Sustainability in Fashion has learned of the exploitative working practices in the UK’s £35bn fashion industry, that primarily harms women from BAME backgrounds. I am pleased to hear of significant improvements being made by some UK brands to curb exploitation in factories and hope that this sends a signal to brands that fashion should not come at the cost of the workers that make our clothes.”

Eden Loweth, Creative Director Art School: “This important paper highlighting and dissecting the impact of Brexit to our industry is a vital next step in recommending and realising real and important change within government policy. The effects of Brexit to emerging and small businesses like myself has been huge; Fashion Roundtable’s dynamic and fast response in highlighting these issues once again shows how important their work is to our industry.”

Nick Knight OBE, Photographer and CEO of SHOWstudio: “It is my experience that this government have absolutely no understanding of the fashion industry, even though it supports so many people in Britain and is an industry that if properly supported could be crucial to help fuel the country’s recovery from this awful pandemic and the resulting lockdowns.” 

Tamara Cincik, Founder and CEO at Fashion Roundtable: “The UK’s fashion and textiles industry deserves to be understood and valued at this critical time. Our brands lead in innovation, sustainability and creativity, while our fashion retailers outlets are frequently the successful entry point for global brands into Europe. But for us to build back better we need more support, more a redressing of the issues such as the Shortage Occupation List, where we call on the Government to add garment workers to the list to support the greater demand for on-shoring until the necessary T-Levels are rolled out and the ending of the VAT Retail Export Scheme, if we are to attract the tourist consumer to the UK post pandemic.”

Notes to Editors

Brexit and the Impact on the Fashion Industry 2018 report

Don't Make Fashion History Campaign 

Following an industry-wide meeting held on Wednesday 20th January 2021, coordinated by Fashion Roundtable, the industry highlighted the key issues, impacts and unforeseen consequences of Brexit in an Open Letter to the Government. Throughout January and February we continued to raise awareness for the sector with our Don't Make Fashion History campaign. The aim of the campaign was to secure a ministerial meeting to discuss the impact of Brexit on the fashion industry and find solutions so we can enable the industry to survive and thrive. Yesterday we hosted an informal roundtable via the APPG for Textiles and Fashion with Paul Scully MP, Minister for Small Business where he answered 13 questions from stakeholders.

Our open letter received cross-party parliamentary support, with signatories including: Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, John McNally MP, Martyn Docherty-Hughes MP, Lord Cashman CBE, Lord Foster of Bath, Earl of Clancarty, Baroness Bonham-Carter and Lord Taylor of Warwick. The letter also gained industry leaders’ support across manufacturing, retail, modelling, creative business, education, brands and journalism. Signatories including John Horner CEO of Models 1, Jenny Holloway CEO of Fashion Enter, Kate Hills CEO of Make It British, Patrick Grant CEO of E. Tautz, Helen Brocklebank CEO of Walpole, Alistair Knox Chair of ASBCI, Jess McGuire-Dudley Design Director of John Smedley, Caroline Issa CEO of Tank Media Group, Jefferson Hack CEO of Dazed Media Group, Sarah Mower MBE, Nick Knight OBE CEO of SHOWstudio, Dame Vivienne Westwood DBE, Dame Twiggy Lawson DBE, Yasmin Le Bon, and Katherine Hamnett CBE.

Fashion Roundtable is the only organisation that sits between the fashion industry and policy leaders; Front Row to Front Bench

We are secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion with members including Dr Lisa Cameron MP.

Fashion Roundtable are also the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, co-chaired by Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey and Catherine West MP. 

Fashion Roundtable’s Founder and CEO Tamara Cincik, has over 20 years’ experience in the industry and since launching Fashion Roundtable, has spoken publicly on Fashion and Politics with a range of high-profile business press including SKY TV, BBC, New York Times, Stern, Liberation, WWD, The Telegraph, FT, Sunday Times, Vogue Business and Business of Fashion. 

For our news updates, please opt into our newsletter.

For more information: 

www.fashionroundtable.co.uk

E: admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk

Press Release: 14 Days Since Our Open Letter To The Government Calling For An Urgent Meeting About Brexit Impacts

16th February 2021

As London Fashion Week begins this week, the Fashion Industry still waits for a response from the Government to our open letter sent 14 days ago, asking for an urgent meeting to discuss Brexit impacts and the very real threat of business decimation.

The fashion industry united in signing our open letter with over 455 industry leader signatories urgently requesting a ministerial meeting 14 days ago. The Government is yet to respond. Media attention is turned to the fashion industry for the fashion week calendar, the silence from the Government is ever more worrying.

Our sector is at real risk of decimation by the Brexit trade deal and current Government policy. To reduce the negative impact to the industry, we are asking the Government to urgently meet so we can share solutions which will help save our industry before it is too late.

The fashion industry is the largest of the creative industries, making more than the automobile, film, music and pharmaceutical industries combined, contributing £35bn to UK GDP and employs almost 1 million people, which was growing 11% year on year, at 4 times the growth of other sectors. The DCMS Select Committee this week met with creatives from music and dance  to discuss freedom of movement, but not from the fashion industry. We did send the DCMS Select Committee a briefing and request to give evidence. We urge that all creatives are treated and valued equally across all levels of government and parliament. To not hear from the largest of the creative industries is surely an omission? We note the Government’s £20m commitment to help the UK’s 6m SMEs with up to £2000 to support businesses; but this is not in line with the £23m to support the fishing industries 12,000 workforce (the same number of people as Debenhams employed for reference) with their EU exports. We are concerned by a clear prioritisation of one industry above another for reasons other than economic factors. 

The UK fashion industry is largely composed of freelancers and SMEs. These creative innovators could be at the forefront of a post Brexit, post pandemic UK; but without Government reaction and support now, they simply won’t survive to help the UK build back better. This is why we call on the UK Government to respond to our open letter and work with us on solutions which will achieve this. We do not have 10 years to wait it out, we should not really have had 14 days. With London Fashion Week fast approaching and media attention upon us,  we are still left waiting. This is not the time for inertia, or delays. A £35bn industry is waiting to hear from its government.

We asked some of the signatories to Fashion Roundtable’s Open Letter and #dontmakefashionhistory campaign who work as creatives and small business owners to share their concerns here. The UK fashion industry has over 59,000 SMEs, plus many more thousands of freelancers; these small to medium enterprises and growing freelancer numbers are the backbone of the thriving economy across the UK. But without the right support they are the most vulnerable, as they do not have the safety net of wide margins to buffer against negative financial impacts. 

Sarah Reygate, Make-Up Artist for the Fashion and Music Industry: “As with many of my colleagues, my work has been deeply impacted by the pandemic. A lot of work comes from Paris. If I now have to organise work contracts and visas for each trip I am likely to lose that work to local based talent in Paris. The Government needs to commit to frictionless work travel for all creatives for the UK based fashion and music industry to continue to be a world leading industry.”

Deborah Latouche, CEO Sabirah: “I was asked recently if SABIRAH will survive Brexit and after thinking about it I realised that we didn’t just want to just survive we want to Thrive! The past year we have all been in survival mode due to the Covid crisis - All of the unnecessary red tape and costs need to be reconsidered as a matter or urgency to help the UK Fashion Industry thrive.”

Nadja Romain, CEO Everything I Want LTD: “As a small business it’s very hard if not impossible to deal on a daily basis, with the level of bureaucracy now involved in UK/EU trade. Not to mention angry customers who end up paying outrageous import taxes that we can’t even anticipate. Large businesses can absorb extra costs and paperwork a small company with less than 10 employees simply cannot. As a French citizen I came to the UK 15 years ago for the creativity combined with a flexibility that allows anyone with a good idea to create a thriving business. This is gone. As if politics has become more important than business. I am opening a branch of my business in Italy to access the EU market which remains the number one destination for luxury goods.”

Karen Binns, Fashion Director and Brand Consultant: “There is a huge fear for independent designers and brands about the high rise in cost to get their shipments coming in and going out abroad. This is the biggest threat to young and independently owned brands, as this is the sort of escalating costs and delays to market that can shut their businesses down completely.”

Tamara Cincik, CEO of Fashion Roundtable: “Silence is not golden, 14 days is 13 days too long to wait for a government commitment to meet with us and our signatories. I have even offered to arrange this meeting for them, all they would need to do is commit to dialling in. A webinar which was not widely circulated or known about by our 890,00 fashion workforce is simply not enough support or mitigate against the tsunami of challenges this complex and vast sector faces. I have more than twice urged DCMS to allow us at Fashion Roundtable to also offer stakeholders a webinar, to ensure information in this challenging time is accessed by as many stakeholders as possible, as well as this urgently needed sector-facing roundtable meeting.

Surely a £35bn industry is worth an hour of their time? We have London Fashion Week around the corner, a time when the world’s media is shining a light on our brilliant talent, yet my inbox is filled with stories of brands relocating, or stopping their direct to EU consumer (B2C) sales, due to escalating Brexit costs. The music industry, the acting industry, the dance industry, the arts, creative and design industry are all in alignment and we all feel overlooked and undervalued. We echo the points made by other creatives and are in solidarity with those organisations who are sharing their concerns. We are committed to offering solutions so we can find a way out of this mess and implore the Government to commit to meeting with us very soon. What is a country without creativity and innovation at the heart of its DNA?” 

Note to Editors

Background

Fashion Roundtable’s Open Letter, signed by over 455 signatories, was presented to the Government on Tuesday 2nd February. A follow-up letter was sent Tuesday 9th February and again on Tuesday 16th February. All three letters request that we can organise an urgent roundtable meeting with the relevant Ministers for the fashion industry in the coming days, to work together and create solutions which will help save our industry.

The Open Letter has received cross-party parliamentary support, with signatories including Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, John McNally MP, Martyn Docherty-Hughes MP, Lord Cashman CBE, Lord Foster of Bath, Earl of Clancarty, Baroness Bonham-Carter and Lord Taylor of Warwick.

The letter has also gained the support of industry leaders across manufacturing, retail, modelling, creative business, education, brands and journalism. 

Signatories include Dame Vivienne Westwood DBE (Vivienne Westwood), Jenny Holloway (Fashion Enter), Paul Barnes (Association of International Retail), Kate Hills (Make It British), Jane Shepherdson CBE (MyWardrobe HQ), Caroline Issa (Tank), John Horner (Models 1), Carole White (Premier), Nick Knight OBE (SHOWstudio), Zowie Broach (RCA), ASBCI, Patrick Grant (E.Tautz and BBC’s Sewing Bee), Camilla Lowther OBE (CLM), Bethany Williams, Phoebe English, Professor Dilys Williams (Centre of Sustainable Fashion UAL), Helen Brocklebank (Walpole), Fashion Revolution, Laura Bailey (Model and British Vogue), Dame Twiggy Lawson DBE (model), Katharine Hamnett CBE (Katharine Hamnett), Sarah Mower MBE (Vogue Runway and British Fashion Council), Julian Vogel (Modus BPCM), Ruth Chapman OBE (Matchesfashion), Isabel Ettedgui (Connolly), Yasmin Le Bon (Model), Roksanda Ilincic (Roksanda), Juergen Teller (Photographer), Jess Mcguire-Dudley (John Smedley), Sarah Coonan (Liberty), Justin Thornton (Preen), Andrea Thompson (Marie Claire), Jane Bruton (Telegraph) and Jefferson Hack (Dazed Media Group).

The Open Letter can be found here: https://www.fashionroundtable.co.uk/openletter

The template letter to your MP can be found here.

About Fashion Roundtable

Fashion Roundtable is the only fashion think tank that sits between the fashion industry and policy leaders: Front Row to Front Bench

We are secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion chaired by Dr Lisa Cameron MP, with members including Dame Eleanor Laing, Lord Taylor of Warwick, John McNally MP and Baron Vaizey of Didcot.

Fashion Roundtable are also the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, co-chaired by Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey and Catherine West MP. 

Tamara Cincik, Founder & CEO of Fashion Roundtable has over 20 years’ experience in the fashion industry and has also worked in parliament. Since launching Fashion Roundtable, Tamara has spoken publicly on fashion and politics with a range of high-profile business press including SKY TV, BBC, CGTN, Telegraph, Financial Times, Times, Guardian, New York Times, Liberation, Stern, Vogue Business and Business of Fashion. 

For more information please contact: 

admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk 

www.fashionroundtable.co.uk

Press Release: The Fashion Industry calls on the Government to meet urgently and discuss solutions to help save our industry.

Monday 1st February 2021

Fashion industry fears for future over consequences of Brexit trade deal

The Fashion Industry calls on the Government to meet urgently and discuss solutions to help save our industry.

The fashion industry contributes £35bn to UK GDP and employs almost 1 million people, but is at real risk of decimation by the Brexit trade deal and current Government policy. 

The UK fashion industry is facing several critical issues, which without urgent attention these issues will jeopardise the immediate and long term future of the sector.

Ours is a thriving industry, based on global leadership, complex supply chains and above all a deeply interconnected relationship with our overseas colleagues. To survive post-Brexit and safeguard our future, we need to ensure we can trade with overseas businesses and are also supported to grow the internal market. 

Following an industry-wide meeting held on Wednesday 20th January 2021, brought together by Fashion Roundtable, the industry has highlighted the key issues, impacts and unforeseen consequences of Brexit in an Open Letter to the Government, with a call to action. 

We are asking the Government to meet so we can create solutions which will help save our industry.

This letter, signed by 451 signatories, will be presented to the Government tomorrow morning, asking that we can sit at an urgent roundtable meeting with the relevant Ministers for the fashion industry in the coming weeks, to work together and create solutions which will help save our industry.

The Open Letter has received cross-party parliamentary support, with signatories including Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, John McNally MP, Martyn Docherty-Hughes MP, Lord Cashman CBE, Lord Foster of Bath, Earl of Clancarty, Baroness Bonham-Carter and Lord Taylor of Warwick.

The letter has also gained the support of industry leaders across manufacturing, retail, modelling, creative business, education, brands and journalism. Signatories include Jenny Holloway (Fashion Enter), Paul Barnes (Association of International Retail), Kate Hills (Make It British), Jane Shepherdson CBE (MyWardrobe HQ), Caroline Issa (Tank), John Horner (Models 1), Carole White (Premier), Nick Knight OBE (SHOWstudio), Zowie Broach (RCA), Camilla Lowther OBE (CLM), Bethany Williams, Phoebe English,

Professor Dilys Williams (Centre of Sustainable Fashion UAL), Helen Brocklebank (Walpole), Fashion Revolution, Laura Bailey (Model and British Vogue), Dame Twiggy Lawson DBE, Katharine Hamnett CBE, Sarah Mower MBE (Vogue Runway and British Fashion Council), Ruth Chapman OBE (Matchesfashion), Isabel Ettedgui (Connolly), Yasmin Le Bon (Model), Roksanda Ilincic (Roksanda), Juergen Teller (Photographer), Jess Mcguire-Dudley (John Smedley), Sarah Coonan (Liberty), Justin Thornton (Preen), Andrea Thompson (Marie Claire), Jane Bruton (Telegraph) and Jefferson Hack (Dazed Media Group).

Jefferson Hack, Dazed Media Group: “Everyone who cares about the future of Britain economically or the future wellbeing of our youth needs to understand what's at stake if our fashion and textiles industry is trashed because politicians won't look at the paperwork and get ink on their fingers. How can they stand by and watch something built over generations collapse when they have the power to make a difference? Now is the time to act to save British Fashion, culture and livelihoods." 

Isabel Ettedgui, Connolly: “Connolly’s home is off Savile Row, but our horizon has always been international, and especially European. Our leather was on the first Rolls Royce and is now on the latest Ferrari. We sell Scottish cashmere but we manufacture our leather goods in a small town in Spain where all the top luxury brands manufacture - because we cannot find the skills to make the goods anymore in the United Kingdom, although the leather is sourced, where possible in this country. It is this dialogue between our island and our neighbours abroad that has shaped who we are. The sadness, the lack of goodwill and the red tape we are now experiencing as a Brexit trading outpost, the financial ramifications of creating barriers with our major trading partner and also the loss of their skills; will be devastating and the result could be the possible closure of a 185-year-old company that holds the Royal Warrant.”

Katharine Hamnett CBE: “We need a radical overhaul of customs arrangements including VAT on all goods shipped into the EU by the end of February, or British brands will die.”

Michelle Noel, MNN Agency: "The fashion industry is having its creative bones fractured by the implementation of Brexit. The emotional and financial impact has been immediate & damaging, to my consultancy practice and to my network of UK & EU clients. Brexit has eroded any slither of confidence in UK governance and highlighted the disdain & insufficient support for thousands of fashion businesses”.

Helen Brocklebank, CEO, Walpole: “Prior to the pandemic, the British luxury sector was in rude health with a value of £48bn to the UK economy and strong annual growth of nearly 10%. Very much a British success story, the sector supported more than 160,000 jobs throughout the UK. However, international visitors to the UK are a crucial revenue driver, and the last 11 months has put severe pressure on their businesses. On top of the pandemic, the eleventh hour Brexit deal has compounded the sector's problems, making chances of swift recovery for British luxury recede compared to their European counterparts. With 42% of all British luxury export sales coming from the EU, the costs and administrative burdens of trading in continental Europe mean many of our members, not least the SME's, have concluded they simply can’t afford to continue selling to those countries. 

Before the pandemic, the UK/EU deal would have created exceptional difficulties for Walpole members. On top of the pandemic, its impact puts an unconscionable pressure on businesses who should be given every priority to be a calling card for Global Britain. Our luxury brands sell Britain to the world, exemplifying British craftsmanship, innovation and heritage, and their continued success is imperative if Britain is to maintain its reputation in the global marketplace. This is really not the time to inflict additional damage on British luxury. Our businesses are resilient, and they will work to navigate the challenges, however, now is the time for the Government to step up to the mark and support the sector with a set of very tailored measures if we are to bounce back swiftly.”

Yasmin Le Bon, Model: "It is crucial not only for people in our business but crucial for the welfare of the UK economy that all people in the creative and fashion industries can travel freely within the EU. I have been working continually in this industry for the past 37 years, it works in a very particular way, with jobs being confirmed literally at the last minute. I may get a call, make a decision and be at the airport within 2 hours ready to fly to Madrid, Milan or Miami! The wealth of these creative industries is in our ability to move and change quickly. This is our future, we can not be stuck back in the dark ages or we will be left behind. Up until now, we have been at the forefront. These are crucial negotiations, the fashion business is huge, and every piece of the jigsaw supports each other, we rarely speak up for ourselves for fear of seeming uncool, but this is about more, it’s about hundreds of thousands of jobs that may potentially be lost. You may think that fashion is all about frou-frou skirts and polka dot ties, but it is about so much more. From the designers not just of fashion and accessories, but all the machining for all the hardware, the craftsmanship of the manufacturers, the creativity and artistry of the marketing and advertising tribes, all the wily, resilient retailers, who have been hit so hard by this pandemic. For once we need to be listened to and for the Government to work with us before it is too late."

Tamara Cincik, CEO Fashion Roundtable: “In the fashion industry, everyone wants to "make fashion history": it is a deeply competitive, hardworking and successful sector, generating over £35bn and almost 1m jobs in the UK. Pre-pandemic it was growing 11% year on year. But there is a real risk of it being utterly decimated from the gaps in the Brexit trade deal and UK Government policy, which across each area of the sector: manufacturing, retail, creative, education, is severely impacting on all levels of the business from SMEs to multinationals and in the coming months will destroy the fashion industry in the UK, removing any hope for us to build back better. From the decision to end the VAT Retail Export Scheme, to the decision to not add garment workers to the Shortage Occupation List for visas, while not lining up the necessary T-Levels to train UK domicile garment workers until September 2023, or the extra costs and delays of Brexit red tape to our largest market, the EU and the very real risk of a brain drain, as the UK becomes increasingly unsustainable for our world-leading fashion talent to stay here. 

Everywhere I look across our complex, innovative and highly successful UK fashion industry, I see perfect storms and tsunamis unless we act. Fashion Roundtable are about solutions: we have them and urge the Government to engage, listen and act upon them now. 

You cannot attract the brightest and the best from overseas, if the talent we already have in the UK cannot stay here for the good of their livelihoods and careers, or you do not shore up the workforce to support a more sustainable, transparent manufacturing sector. 

We urge the Government to meet with us, listen to our concerns and policy solutions, so we can ensure the long term viability of the UK fashion industry, which we have all worked so hard to make the success story it is. We want the fashion industry to continue to thrive as a key contributor to GDP and the jobs market in years to come. 

We urge the Government to hear us and act: don't make fashion history.”

Note to Editors

Background
The deal done with the EU has a gaping hole where promised free movement for goods and services for all creatives, including the fashion and textiles sector, should be. The fashion and textiles industry is the largest component of the previously thriving UK creative industries, growing 11% annually, bringing vital jobs and innovation to the UK. We contribute more to UK GDP than fishing, music, film, pharma and motor industries combined. Yet we have been disregarded in this deal and our concerns overlooked in current policy decisions. This has significantly impacted our opportunity to build back better and grow our onshoring manufacturing, digital innovation and sustainable design and technology in the UK, where we now, more than ever, have the real chance to show global leadership.

The full letter can be found here https://www.fashionroundtable.co.uk/openletter

About Fashion Roundtable

Fashion Roundtable is the only fashion think tank that sits between the fashion industry and policy leaders; Front Row to Front Bench

We are secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion chaired by Dr Lisa Cameron MP, with members including Dame Eleanor Laing, Lord Taylor of Warwick, John McNally MP and Baron Vaizey of Didcot.

Fashion Roundtable are also the secretariat for the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, co-chaired by Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey and Catherine West MP. 

Tamara Cincik, Founder & CEO Fashion Roundtable has over 20 years’ experience in the fashion industry and has also worked in parliament for Sharon Hodgson MP. Since launching Fashion Roundtable, Tamara has spoken publicly on fashion and politics with a range of high-profile business press including SKY TV, BBC, Telegraph, Vogue Business and Business of Fashion. 

For more information please contact: 

admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk 

www.fashionroundtable.co.uk

Press Release: Fashion Roundtable To Host An In Conversation With Fashion Legend Karen Binns.

On Thursday 17/10 Fashion Roundtable will host an exclusive In Conversation evening with legendary fashion editor Karen Binns, bringing the conversation we hosted at Port Eliot Festival last summer to The Curtain, London. 

Karen’s career reads like a who’s who of the creative industries: from NYC to London, from Paris to Singapore, from Lagos to LA, she has worked with the leaders and insiders across music, fashion, art and culture, leading creatives towards a representative and relevant pop culture.

From working with art visionary Jean-Michel Basquiat (he first walked the catwalk for Comme-des-Garcons because of Karen’s intervention), to defining cult artist Tori Amos’ style for a generation, podcasting for Love Magazine, reviewing catwalk shows for SHOWstudio, as well as consulting for brands such as Savile Row icon Ozwald Boateng, to new gen talents ArtSchool London, Karen’s insider role has connected fashion to art, curating collaborations such as Andre Walker for Kim Jones, or bringing Nile Rodgers and Chic to play at an exclusive party for French Vogue at Paris Couture Fashion Week, to brilliant effect.

Marc Jacobs on Karen: "I've known Karen both personally and professionally for over two decades. Her boundless energy and enthusiasm for fashion is always a great and welcome inspiration to me. Her soaring, distinct vision and her insightful unique interpretation of 'what is ' and 'what will be' makes her a truly rare and exceptional voice in the fashion universe."

As Fashion Director for Fashion Roundtable, Karen has spoken on inclusion and new generation talent at several of our events and regularly reviews the London and Paris shows for our audience. Binns has contributed to numerous panels on fashion, pop culture, the arts and diversity, including at the V&A, MASTERED and Lulu Kennedy. Her aptitude to culturally curate incisive collaborations between art, music, fashion and curators is now globally renowned. Want to hear how she does it: full details of the In Conversation with Karen Binns are here.

ENDS

Notes to editors

If you would like to support our Representation and Inclusion in the fashion Industry campaign please see https://www.fashionroundtable.co.uk/are-you-represented and contact admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk to be supplied with additional imagery and information. Please also follow on social media #areyourepresented 

If you wish to find out how you can sponsor the paper please contact admin@fashionroundtable.co.u

Fashion Roundtable LTD is the only fashion-focused consultancy providing industry leading events, public affairs and policy. Fashion Roundtable Organisation LTD is our NFP which covers our All Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion and policy work. 

Fashion Roundtable’s founder, Tamara Cincik, has over 20 years’ experience in the industry and since the launching Fashion Roundtable, has spoken publicly on Fashion & Politics with a range of high profile business press including SKY TV, Vogue Business and Business Of Fashion. 

Fashion Roundtable’s community includes the most influential Fashion Activists and politicians such as Katherine Hamnett CBE, Nick Knight OBE, Sarah Mower MBE, designers including Ashish, Richard Malone and Bethany Williams winner of this year’s Queen Elizabeth II Award For Design, as well as All Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion members including Dr Lisa Cameron MP, Dame Eleanor Laing, John McNally MP, Rushanara Ali MP, Catherine West MP and Andrea Jenkyns MP.

Press Release 21/03/2019: From catwalks to Customs Union, Fashion Roundtable represent the Brexit concerns of the fashion industry

As the UK government seeks a delay to Article 50, Speaker John Bercow has refused repeated voting versions of Theresa May’s meaningful vote and the EU has declared it will only allow the extension if parliament ratifies May's deal, Tamara Cincik CEO and Founder of Fashion Roundtable reveals why fashion has to be valued if Brand Britain is to survive Brexit.

"When we launched Fashion Roundtable the majority of politicians I spoke to thought the industry was just Kate Moss & catwalk shows and were more concerned about fisheries than fashion” Cincik says.“However after contacting each of the 650 MPs highlighting the reality of the UK Fashion Industry’s valuable contribution - generating over 890,000 jobs, nationwide and thousands of jobs and revenue to each of their constituencies - we're now seeing politicians from across the parties, uniting to ensure that our industry maintains its status as a global soft power leader for the economy.”

Fashion Roundtable were the only organisation from inside the industry who surveyed our sector to publish a Brexit Paper on the first anniversary of the triggering of Article 50 (almost one year ago). With the clock ticking down, we asked key voices of the industry to share their concerns about the delays, the political landscape and consequences for their businesses.

Mia Wallenius, Director, Klaus Haapaniemi, a lifestyle, interiors and fashion company: “The main reason we are leaving the UK is the uncertainty of what happens after the Brexit. We started 9 years ago in London, where we have a wonderful loyal customer base and press following in UK, that has helped us to grow also globally. But the majority of our customers are in the EU and they just wouldn’t order our products if they had to pay customs. Our European wholesalers have made it clear too, that our products would be too expensive for them including customs tariffs. The past two years have already been difficult with sterling going down and UK consumers being more cautious. Instead of waiting to see how it will all turn out and affect us, we found it easier and less stressful to move all of our business to EU. At the moment we print all our fabrics in UK and manufacture fashion and home products in Estonia, we have already looked for alternative printing factories in EU to avoid paying customs for our materials being shipped to the factory where the products are made. Brexit really has made it impossible for us to stay.”

For a flourishing independent shop and retail business to decide to leave the UK their shop in London’s iconic Shoreditch, their UK manufacturers and of course their domicile taxation, is worrying as fashion faces the on-going political confusions head on.

Jenny Holloway CEO and Founder of Fashion Enter, a manufacturing hub in North London, explains what she would like to see for the public and the industry and why her company in spite of Brexit uncertainties, has decided to stay and indeed expand into exportation options to the EU.

“People have lost track of what Brexit now means and now, no-one is going to get what they were promised/wanted at the time of the referendum. MPs are divided and we should put it back to the people; presumably this means having another referendum, in order to reconnect the people to the outcome of Brexit as it is now and solve the deadlock with MPs. Fashion Enter have to forge our own way forward and absorb calculated risks. We are investing six figure sums into new plant and machinery thanks to the Good Growth Fund and our Tailoring Academy is now underway. This is to train up a new generation of stitchers and skilled technicians as Brexit has seen the end of skilled labour from East European. We have launched our own range with the sole aim of export - we have never exported before, but we now have our first account in Spain.”

In light of the People’s Vote March on Saturday and in alignment with 96% of the fashion industry who voted Remain in the EU referendum and wish to have their say, designer Katharine Hamnett CBE said: 

“We have to have a second referendum, with expats allowed to vote just to check that Brexit is still what the majority of British citizens still want. More democracy is not undemocratic. It is even undemocratic to suggest that it is. Britain should field candidates for the European Elections in May, just in case the Referendum result is Remain. The government should ask the EU for an extension of Article 50 for 6 months to facilitate this, as this is how long it takes to get a referendum organised and it should also be asking for an optional second 6 months to be able to properly prepare in case the referendum result is Leave. If the EU refuses, Britain should repeal Article 50, hold the referendum, and re-instate Article 50 for 6 months after the referendum if the country votes Leave.”

Nearly two years since Article 50 was triggered, one year since we published our Fashion and Brexit Paper and with just over a week until the UK is due to leave the EU, Fashion Roundtable call on all sides to finally come together to find a solution which is viable for business, prevents a talent exodus and listens to our evidence on implications for optimum outcomes.

ENDS

Notes to Editors: 

Fashion Roundtable LTD is the only fashion-focused consultancy providing industry leading events, public affairs and policy. 

Fashion Roundtable’s CEO & Founder, Tamara Cincik, has over 20 years’ experience in the industry and since the launch the independent think tank, has spoken publicly on Fashion & Politics with a range of high profile business press including SKY TV, Forbes, Mail on Sunday, Vogue Business and Business Of Fashion. 

Fashion Roundtable’s community includes the most influential Fashion Activists and politicians such as Katharine Hamnett CBE, Nick Knight OBE, Sarah Mower MBE, designers including Ashish, Richard Malone and Bethany Williams winner of this year’s Queen Elizabeth II Award For Design, as well as working as the secretariat for the All Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion members including Dr Lisa Cameron MP, Dame Eleanor Laing, John McNally MP, Rushanara Ali MP, Catherine West MP and Andrea Jenkyns MP. 

According to Oxford Economics, the UK fashion industry contributes over £32.3bn to UK GDP; whereas fishing makes £1.4GVA for the UK economy (East London alone makes the same amount just from the fashion industry). With clear policy leads, the business will grow: fashion business grew by 11% and the UK is a worldwide leader in sustainable SMEs fashion enterprises. 

The Fashion Roundtable Brexit Paper confirms that 94% of the industry- including reps from Oliver Bonas, Wallpaper, Vogue and Graduate Fashion Week - feel fashion is grossly underrepresented in Parliament.

3 key takeaways from Fashion Roundtable’s Brexit Paper are:

• 96% would vote Remain if there was a second referendum tomorrow.

• 56% would change their voting behaviour if a fashion policy agenda was clearly on offer in an election.

• 94% feel fashion is under-represented in UK politics and would like the UK Government to work on policy affecting the sector with Fashion Roundtable.

Fashion Roundtable’s top 3 key concerns are:

1. Maintain the Single Market

2. Continue our Involvement in EU Cultural Educational and Business Programme

3. Provide Legal Guarantees for EU Nationals

Our top 3 key asks are: 

1. No additional costs associated with the movement of people, or goods, between the UK and European countries.

2. No restriction on economic migration.

3. No hard border for UK nationals moving within Schengen.

For more information on our Brexit policy and consultancy work, email admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk

FASHION ROUNDTABLE is offering anyone interested in Fashion & Politics the opportunity to come and be part of the debate and take part in their workshop led by their expert team across fashion, politics and policy on the 30th March, at the Ace Hotel Shoreditch E1 6JQ from 1 – 4.30pm. 

Link to tickets here.

Social media handles:

Tamara Cincik@tamaracincik (Instagram & Twitter)

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Instagram @fashionroundtable

Twitter @FashionRoundTab

Facebook @FashionRoundtableLondon

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