OPed: Advocating for World Earth Day everyday by Meg Pirie

Model: Casey Kees

More than ever climate change is a dominating discussion. Without urgent mitigation, scientists have cautioned the irreversible loss of valuable ecosystems as well as unjust effects for the world’s most vulnerable regions, making it clear that we cannot continue as we are. The latest IPCC report ‘Climate Change 2022: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability’ focuses on ecosystems, biodiversity, and human communities, alongside vulnerabilities and the capacities and limits of the natural world and human societies to adapt to climate change. The report makes it clear that if we overshoot the 1.5 degree cap, many human and natural systems will face additional and severe risks, some of which will be irreversible even if global warming is reduced.  

This is a painful and depressing reality in which limits to production and consumption are needed globally. Along with other industries, this confers an obligation for the multi-billion dollar fashion industry to reduce its environmental impact. However, at times of great despondency it’s often more pragmatic to draw on what’s being done and not on the things which aren’t. So, in light of World Earth Day’s 52nd anniversary, we’ve uncovered some of the initiatives launched by fashion brands and ambassadors alike, showcasing a collective agency across the sector. 

eBay launches ‘Imperfects’ 

From a consumer standpoint, there is a noticeable shift in people wanting to support sustainable products, particularly in a post-Covid world. Research by eBay’s global 2022 Recommerce Report discovered that 42% of eBay consumers cited a desire to reduce waste and environmental concerns, as well as ways to save money. Two pre-loved items are sold every second on eBay and data from the report showed that searches for ‘preloved’ have multiplied, with the search ‘used dresses’ up by 156%. 

In response, last week saw eBay launch a new initiative ‘Imperfects’ which looks to reduce consumer’s fashion spend and environmental footprint, the fashion equivalent to supermarkets’ wonky veg initiative. The new range offers new clothes, shoes and accessories with defects from high street and luxury designers, at a discount. The imperfect items may include small defects such as a missing button, a loose thread or ex-display item which means they can’t be sold at full price because they do not meet stringent manufacturer’s standards. 

In a statement by Head of Fashion at eBay UK, Jemma Tadd says, 

‘With growing financial pressures and the climate crisis continuing to be at the forefront of consumers’ minds, we’re proud to launch Imperfects as another avenue to help keep fashion items out of landfill. 

It’s often the fashion items that may have not made the ‘cut’ and failed quality assurance checks - as a result customers would not have had the opportunity to purchase the items. eBay is providing a platform for these items to be given a second chance, and be sold, despite their imperfections.’

Manifesto for regenerative fashion

The Sustainable Markets Initiative Fashion Taskforce, founded by Prince Charles, last week announced its Regenerative Fashion Manifesto, outlining the need for a fashion industry which embraces climate and nature positive practices. Chaired by founder of Yoox Net-A-Porter Federico Marchetti, and in partnership with the Circular Bioeconomy Alliance, the manifesto includes signatories from brands such as Burberry, Selfridges, Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney and Chloé. 

The initiative started with a EUR1m investment programme focusing on restoring wildlife and sustainable farming in the Himalayas. In signing the manifesto, brands are aligned in collaborating to work towards and promote circular bioeconomy supply chains and regenerative landscapes and practices; as well as engaging with local and indigenous communities to ensure that they are involved in the design and benefits derived from the programme. 

This project is particularly compelling in shifting away from fashion’s linear model of take-make-dispose. Initial research by the programme suggests that by focusing on regenerative practices, there is a reduction of a reliance on fertilisers and pesticides which are linked to pollution and account for 70% of emissions in cotton cultivation. The programme therefore aims to increase revenue for farmers as well as reducing greenhouse gas emissions. 

Leonardo DiCaprio backs $45 million regenerative economy fund

Similar to the manifesto for regenerative fashion, Regeneration VC, launched last week with a focus on leaving behind the wasteful linear economy, in favour of a circular and regenerative paradigm. With backing from entrepreneurs, scientists, cultural and corporate leaders, as well as circular-economy pioneer William McDonough, and strategic partnership and investment from climate-activist Leonardo DiCaprio, the fund looks to empower consumers in the fight to reclaim our planet. 

The fund invests in three innovation themes: design, use and reuse, and has recognised a $4.5T opportunity to evolve consumer industries through the power of circular and regenerative principles. Perhaps most conclusive is the focus on making more of the consumer items that are needed, while reducing emissions through regenerative thinking. While we should advocate for less consumption, it is naive to assume that essential items aren’t needed and therefore the project looks to give consumers the power to vote for circular brands through their purchasing habits. 

Moving forward 

For some time a circular economy has been heralded as a solution, particularly where businesses have lost a sense of responsibility and ownership for the garments that they produce – not only from an environmental and social standpoint but also in not providing better care, repair and recycling practices after the product has been sold. Therefore circularity sees the value in these garments and looks to maintain that value and utility for as long as possible. Regenerative thinking fits into this narrative and is a word we’ll be hearing far more of. 

What these initiatives provide is a view that regenerative and circular focuses are fundamental in the race to reclaim our planet. However, while we should be celebrating the agency surrounding Earth Day, this is a level of action that we need all of the time if we are to mitigate our collective contribution to the environmental degradation of our planet. This momentum could see us save resources, reduce waste, all while meeting our needs. In a post-growth world, we need so many more initiatives to follow suit, not just around Earth day, but everyday.